Club class

Sri Lanka may not immediately spring to mind as a destination for golf-hungry travellers, but the sport has a long and illustrious history on the island, as well as three stunning courses. Introduced back in the heyday of the British Empire, the sport got its first official seat in the Royal Colombo Golf Club in 1879.

Tucked away in a quiet corner of bustling Colombo, having moved here from its original home on Galle Face Green in 1896, the course will challenge the low handicapper but also give the beginner a fair chance of breaking 100. While not the longest course in the world (5570m), there are evils - some obvious and some most subtle - that will punish complacency. Tricky dog legs round awe-inspiringly large trees, tight greens and the 13 craftily placed water hazards make it a true test of skill. The large giant monitor lizard population is another incentive to be accurate from the tee!

The 13th hole is the most daunting, a test not only of skill but of nerve and character. A short par three, with a huge water hazard in front of the green, out of bounds behind and to the right and a huge bunker to the left, the 13th has spoilt many a good card.

There is no finer experience in Colombo than an early morning round under clear skies, with the chorus of bird songs providing the background music. You almost feel guilty considering outside the rarefied surrounds of Royal Colombo, people are trudging off to work. The railway line that runs down the sixth fairway regularly has crammed commuter trains ambling past, only adding to the sense of well-being. The RCGC has a very well stocked pro shop and driving range for a pre-game warm-up.

The Victoria Golf and Country Resort, 30 minutes from Kandy, is regularly voted among the world's top 10 courses, and has been named the best course in the subcontinent for two years in a row now. Each hole offers a new challenge against a backdrop of the stunning, tree-lined hills of central Sri Lanka. As you tee off from the sixth hole, you look down 100 feet to the fairway - but if you get swayed by the views, that'd be your mistake.

The Victoria counts Ian Botham, Greg Norman and Bill Clinton among its prominent fans. The clubhouse has a relaxed and informal feel, combining an old Ceylon vibe with the understated glamour of a luxury resort. Caddies - most of who are near scratch golfers - are readily available, and a charming and personable pro is on hand to offer tips on technique or the intricacies of this most unique course.

Roughly an hour and a half from Kandy by car, the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club takes you back 100 years in time. Built by British servicemen in 1889, the hill-country course is exceptionally beautiful, and enjoys an agreeable year-round temperate climate.

The longest course in Sri Lanka, it offers ample opportunities to get the driver out. Be warned, though, this is leopard country - so don't veer too far into the rough! Leopard spottings are rare, but the knowledge that they are out there adds a dash of intrigue to the round. The 12th, 13th, and 14th holes are known as "Little Switzerland" - a tribute to the topography, which resembles the foothills of the Swiss Alps - and are both a golfing challenge and a visual memory to be cherished for life.

The clubhouse and bar is an atmospheric place in which to enjoy a drink and meal after your round. It is full of character and colonial history. Little has changed since the founding of the club and you can even enjoy a log fire on cooler evenings. If you want to have a taste of what life was like for a colonial planter a century ago, this is where to head.

RCGC: Weekday fees are Rs 5500, a week membership's costs Rs20,000, and bank holidays and weekend fees are Rs 7500. There is also a compulsory Rs 550 fee for your caddie. To hire a set of clubs costs Rs1,500. The course will be known to all Colombo taxi drivers, and should cost roughly Rs 500 to get to from any of the major hotels.

Victoria: During the week a round is Rs 4500 and on weekends Rs 6000. The caddie fee is Rs 500 and the compulsory ball spotter costs Rs 200. A buggy costs Rs 4000 per round.

Nuwara Eliya: Weekday green fees are Rs 3350 and on weekends Rs 3900. The compulsory caddie cost is Rs 300 per round and club hire is Rs 1000.