A passage to India

Intellectually speaking, India may be a land of obscurantism and poverty but that is all the more reason to visit the place and see for yourself the wonders of a country that is quite far removed now from the cliched image of snake charmers and rope trick artists.

Nowhere is the first world-third world divide more apparent than in a land of huge cultural and physical diversity in which even a mendicant may browse the world wide web in roadside kiosks which are a symbol of the 1'I' revolution that holds the country in its thrall now.

The enduring image may be that of India's poverty - no tourist can hope to escape that, even if he lives in the lap of luxury that the five- star resorts are - but no one who has visited the country can claim he or she has not been as fascinated by its people as much as bemused by its contradictions.

It is one of life's great experiences to see at first hand how happy people are. As Mahatma Gandhi said most famously: 'Each smile on the face of poverty brings a tear to my eye.' It is hard to believe there could be such contentment in a people who earn so little and yet are so full of life.

Much of the paraphernalia of British colonial rule is still in evidence, as much in place names as on the cricket fields. Cricket is a bond that transcends culture. The India of today is a vibrant land that has its own allure including the imagery whipped up by its wristy batsmen and wily spin bowlers.

Tourists who are shepherded in luxury through the well known triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur may hardly see the real India, although some of the country's finest heritage sites exist on that beaten trail. The durable Taj Mahal, a symbol of a glorious past, is still the country's most instantly recognisable landmark.

The state of Rajasthan, of which Jaipur is the capital, has a valid claim to be the top tourist draw. "There is a colour and a vibrancy that is unmatched in the rest of the country. The lakes of Udaipur form a fantastic backdrop to some of the most luxurious accommodation in old palaces. Jaisalmer offers a feel of life in the desert like no other. A touch of the rich texture of life in the bygone era of the Raj is best experienced at jodhpur, while a tiger safari in Rathnambhore is an experience well worth the trouble of travelling there. The beaches of Goa beckon the tourists in the same way as the sun-dappled sands of the Caribbean. Budget tourists and back-packers have for long been seduced by the combination of sun 'n' sand. The state has well appointed resorts for wealthier visitors and the publicity line is 'Goa is a state of mind' and not just a region with a long coastline.

The south of the country has a completely different ambience with Kerala offering a lot more than just lazy beaches, though one would need to be very interested in ancient temple architecture to be able to appreciate the wonders of a country that has some claim to an exalted spiritual status. In man's eternal search for God many an acolyte has landed here confident in the belief that an eastern guru can show him the true path.

On another plane, what comes nearest to formal religion is worship of the game of cricket. Don't be surprised if the locals have a healthy disregard for the England cricket team even if they are aware of its recent form in which four 'lest series, including two abroad, were won in a year under the stewardship of the Madras-born Nasser Hussain.

Old timers will `remember `Mr Iron Bottom' of whose legendary exploits they had a first-hand impression in the Jubilee Test in Bombay in 1981. To them he was a character who was larger than life. He was the quintessential Englishman with the spirit of an adventurer stepping out of the pages of colonial history. Yes, Botham is the first English cricket name even a tourist guide will come up with.

Lutyens' Delhi hosts buildings born of an architecture out of olde London. The influence of the Raj is most evident i here. Delhi is also the convenient gateway to Rajasthan, which is actually only a bus ride away, and also to Uttar Pradesh, where Rudyard Kipling spent so much of his life. Hosting as it does India's giants in the field, Bangalore is the IT capital of the country today. It is a bustling city with balmy winter weather and a distinct pub culture. Of the three Test venues, Ahmedabad may be the least attractive and it has been stricken recently by an earthquake. Not far from the city is the ashram where Gandhi spent much of his time.

Forget, of course, the old line about `Don't breathe the air, don't eat the food, don't drink the water'; Bill Clinton, who discovered the joys of Indian curry in Delhi, has been a changed man since. And bottled water has altered the lives of keen tourists who may feel there are not enough hours in the day to take in the delights of the country that as a tourist destination has a lot to commend itself for. Spare a kind thought for the beggars who may outnumber by a few thousand the buskers of the London Underground but who have little to live on.

There is so little inner city crime that a tourist is free to roam where he pleases. But beware of the touts. They are the only ones who can spoil your happiness. India is a land you cannot have enough of. A first-time visitor may take a while to get over the culture shock. But he will soon be an India veteran. So enchanting and colourful is a country that still celebrates its past even as it winds its way towards the future.