A present of the past
History segues seamlessly into today in Hobart, which loves its dichotomies
04-Nov-2014

Victoria Dock: don't miss the marina • UniversalImagesGroup
Young yet historic, laidback yet fervent is how Hobart could be described. The capital of Tasmania, the holiday state, is truly one of the prettiest cities you could visit in the southern hemisphere. Sitting on the Derwent River, under the looming height of Mt Wellington, Hobart doesn't just bask in its natural beauty. The city has enhanced itself with the vibrant atmosphere of numerous festivals and inner-city bars and restaurants.
Besides that, its lively Victoria Dock with its pretty marina and attractive Georgian buildings and serene surrounding districts make it a city that is simply a joy to visit and even stay in for an extended amount of time. There are museums, markets, festivals, glorious food, fresh produce and superb restaurants. Besides that, Hobart is an ideal base for day trips to surrounding places of interest like Richmond, which has Australia's oldest jail and the oldest convict-built bridge, as well as the Port Arthur penal colony.
Looking out over Hobart today, it's tough to believe that this modern city started out as a settlement of tents and wattle-and-daub huts in 1804, with a population of 262 Europeans, of whom 178 were convicts. It grew from a village to Hobart Town and was finally proclaimed a city in 1842. Much like in Mumbai, the natural harbour that the Derwent River provided was important to the development of the city, where Europeans made their fortunes from whaling, shipbuilding and the export of locally reared and grown products like merino wool and corn.
The Bellerive Oval, where the World Cup matches will be played, has been an area for recreation right from the 1850s. It went through a major redevelopment in 2002 and now can hold 16,000 spectators.
What to pack: Tasmania, being an island, is always buffeted by all kinds of weather, no matter what the time of year. So be sure to pack a rain jacket, a sweater and a light jacket. It is also a city that is lovely to explore on foot, so comfortable walking shoes are a must.
Getting around
The airport is 16km east of the city centre and the airport shuttle bus travels (via various places to stay) between the airport and the city centre and vice versa fairly frequently. If you're up to it, this is a very easy city to walk; streets are well marked and hotel receptions almost always have good maps to give out. Cycling is another brilliant way to get around Hobart and you can hire cycles at Hobart Bike Hire.
Metro is the local bus network, with a friendly website. Their green card is ideal for a few days' stay in Hobart and gives the flexibility of hopping on and off a bus without having to buy a ticket. From the Clarence Street stop, Bellerive Oval is a four-minute walk.
Where to stay
It is advisable to stay in and around the Hobart city centre - read Salamanca Place - which is not only pretty, but also has the best hotels and restaurants. Bellerive Oval is 24 minutes away by bus.
High-end: The Henry Jones Art Hotel is a harbour-side hotel-cum-gallery housed in fantastically restored warehouses and oozes sophistication. It is an 800m walk from Salamanca Place. The rooms, food, service and bar are all first rate. The Grand Chancellor is a waterfront property on Davey Street, about 750m from Salamanca Place. The rooms are huge and the harbour- view rooms are well worth the price. The Quest Savoy on Elizabeth Street is close to where the bus to the Oval departs from. It has superb modern studio suites, all equipped with a kitchenette and living and dining areas. Spa and services are also available.
Mid-range: Harrington 102 is a good hotel 850m from Salamanca Place. The rooms, though small, are well equipped. Customs House Hotel is a pub with rooms so it might get noisy at night but it is a great place to stay at since it is right on the harbour-front. Welcome Stranger Hotel isn't much to look at from the outside but it's a comfortable place to stay. Though it's on a noisy street, the windows are double-glazed so that street noise doesn't filter through. It's just six minutes from Salamanca Place and has a backpackers section too.
The Derwent was crucial to Hobart's development•UniversalImagesGroup
Budget: The Pickled Frog is owned by Hobart locals who have travelled the world, and it shows. It's a lively, communal kind of place with a great social vibe. It is 1.1km from Salamanca Place. Narrara Backpackers is 1.3km from Salamanca Place and has a mix of twin-share rooms, dorms, female-only dorms and four-people family rooms. Central City Backpackers is in the heart of the business district. Being centrally located, it is walking distance to the waterfront, restaurants and city shopping arcades.
Where to eat
High-end: Situated at 100 Elizabeth Street, Ethos Eat Drink is a charming space hidden in an historic stable and surrounded by a pretty courtyard. This quaint bistro sources ethical commodities for its modern Australian cuisine. Chef Iain Todd serves substantial dishes, designed to share, in a casual atmosphere. An eclectic wine list focuses on local producers. Garagistes on Murray Street is a fine-dining Japanese restaurant. Exciting ingredients in unexpected and artful combinations make up Chef Luke Burgess' daily menu. An extensive international list of natural wines complements share plates of seasonally grown local ingredients.
Mid-range: Smolt, located in the heart of Hobart's bustling waterfront dining district, offers a relaxed dining experience with simple, well-executed food. Chef Scott Heffernan's menu finds inspiration in Spain and Italy, showcasing local produce - and local wines - with integrity and flair.T42 on the Elizabeth Street Pier is a favourite with Hobart's swish set, especially as the weekend draws near, because of its very innovative menu and good wine. If you're a serious meat eater then the Ball & Chain Grill is the place to head to, on Salamanca Place. Vegetarians will be thoroughly disappointed, but the steaks and the racks are delicious.
Budget: Zum Café at Salamanca Place has a lot of heart-warming breakfast options and some fantastic risottos, pastas and pastries for later in the day. Vietnamese Kitchen (61, Salamanca Place, +61-3-62232188) is a cheap and cheerful eatery where you can pig out on tasty noodles, soups, and prawn and tofu dishes. Blue Skies on Murray Street Pier (+61-3-62243747) is an enormous waterfront eatery with pastas, burgers and light meals. They also have filet steak, lamb and a seafood platter. The tables outside have lovely views.
An installation at the MONA•Getty Images
Where to party
Tasmania is the holiday isle and Hobart has some of its youngest population. Yet the party scene is pretty low-key. The best live music plays every Friday from 5.30pm to 7.30pm at Salamanca Arts Centre Courtyard and it's free. There is a bar (not free) that serves beer, sangria (and mulled wine in winter). After that there are plenty of pubs and bars to carry on the party. Syrup (39 Salamanca Place, Battery Point) is touted as the bar located the farthest south you can go in Australia. Spread over two floors of convict-hewn sandstone and timber, this former hotel turned pub turned club has been a favourite place for locals and travellers since the 1800s. Isobar (11, Franklin Wharf) is split into two levels. The downstairs pub is more of a drinking place, while the upstairs "Isobar the Club" plays commercial dance music and is a hit with tourists. T42 listed in "where to eat" above also turns into a nightclub during weekend nights.
Don't leave Hobart without...
Taking a trip to Port Arthur and preferably staying a night there. They have an adults-only Paranormal Experience tour where you can actually go out looking for ghosts using scientific methods and instruments.
Visiting the MONA, Museum of Old and New Art, which opened in Hobart in January 2011. It houses a collection that ranges from ancient Egyptian mummies to some of the world's most infamous and thought-provoking contemporary art. The building's subterranean design and the owner's unconventional and challenging curatorial approach make it a must-see for any visitor to Australia.