Rising from the ashes

The cultural heart of Hawke's Bay and the geographical halfway line of North Island, Napier is like nowhere else in New Zealand, Australia or, in fact, any of the other countries represented in the tournament. Pristine beaches; stunning warm, dry summers; cafe culture; more wine than you know what to do with; and remarkable, quirky art deco architecture give Napier and the surrounding area a special feel: it's Mediterranean, it's a throwback, it's a treat, but most of all, it's utterly unique.

The art deco movement in Europe didn't last long, 20 years at a push. Yet, perhaps by grim fate, its greatest surviving exhibition is the town of Napier, in faraway New Zealand. This is because on February 3, 1931, an earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale rumbled for approximately 150 seconds, 15km north of Napier. It remains New Zealand's deadliest natural disaster - yes, even more so than the Christchurch catastrophe of 2011 - with the town razed to the ground, 256 dead, thousands injured and many more rendered homeless. Barely a building withstood the shake as the heat of summer and sea breeze encouraged the spread of fires.

As it happens, the style du jour was art deco. Remarkably, the rebuild, which took place in just two years, stands loud and proud to this day, thanks to the Napier Art Deco Trust. It was decided that buildings should seldom stand taller than two stories, to guard against future quakes; there would be no overhanging parapets and the ornamentation was tight. The art deco style is exceptionally detailed and Napier is embellished with some beautiful Kiwi touches, such as Maori motifs and carvings. Nearby Hastings, which also suffered at the hands of the quake, also has some art deco buildings, as does Wellington. There are other art deco towns across the world - Miami Beach, Santa Barbara, Bandung in Indonesia, and Asmara in Eritrea (built by the Italians as the model colonial city) spring to mind - but none rivals Napier for its commitment to and constancy of the style. Even those without the faintest interest in architecture won't fail to be impressed: its architecture is Napier's pride and joy, its claim to fame and a truly unique selling point. It's Nice meets Victorian English seaside town and it's wonderful.

What to pack: February and March in Hawke's Bay are hot, dry and dusty months, so leave your woollens at home. A sturdy pair of shoes would be handy as there are many beautiful walks in the area.

Napier town itself is very manageable on foot. The cricket ground, McLean Park, is to the south of the city, a 15-minute stroll or five-minute drive from Tennyson Street in the town centre, where many of the hotels and eateries can be found. Walking along the seafront at Marine Parade is recommended, but there may be a shuttle bus service laid on for major match days. If you're staying outside of the town, local bus services will take you to Napier Library on Dalton Street, a ten-minute walk from the ground. There is parking around the stadium.

To get the best out of the area, however, you'll want the independence that only your own wheels can provide. You can rent a car through Avis, Europcar and others in the region. The surrounding area is stunning, and wonderful as Napier is, you should allow for a few days in the area and not limit yourself to the town. That said, if you're to make the most of those wineries, it's probably best not to be behind the wheel.

High-end: Art deco Masonic Grand is magical. Everything, from the grand lobby to the heavy, tall doors to the rooms themselves is in art deco style. It's right in the heart of the city, next to the water, and many rooms have a balcony - bonus! The County Hotel is also a grand building, by Bluff Hill. Like the Masonic, it's a venue with real charm and plenty of personal touches that will leave you wanting more. Both of these hotels are less than 20 minutes from the stadium. If you're looking for something slightly off the beaten track, a number of the wineries also offer luxury accommodation. Our favourite is Craggy Range in nearby Havelock North. It's set in stunning countryside and the accommodation is high end, but you'll need that hire car - it's about a 20-minute drive to the stadium and city centre.

Mid-range: Napier boasts of a decent range of motels and mid-range accommodation. Motel de la Mer, as its name suggests, has a real Mediterranean feel and is located on Marine Parade, a ten-minute walk to the stadium. Likewise, Asure Colonial Lodge Motel is very pleasant in the summer, with a pool and bright, spacious mini apartments. This place is more inland and a bit further from the stadium and city centre, a ten-minute drive or so.

Budget: Criterion Art Deco Backpackers, the Art House Backpackers and YHA Napier are all solid options if you're working on a tight budget. All are in the heart of the city and offer the 21st-century backpacking basics - Wi-Fi, clean kitchens and decent advice on where to head and what to do. Criterion is our pick as its style is in keeping with art deco Napier: It was originally built in the aftermath of the earthquake as a high-end hotel. All three are within a 20-minute walk of the stadium.

High-end: If you're feeling adventurous, head out to the wineries. Black Barn is super, as is Elephant Hill, winners of Best Winery Restaurants in New Zealand 2011 and 2014 respectively. In the town centre, the Emporium is attached to the Masonic and is every bit as grand. The food is excellent too. Back in central Napier, it would be remiss not to mention Mister D on Tennyson Street, which has the best breakfast and coffee in town. Try the homemade baked beans and pulled pork. Lunch and dinner are great as well.

Mid-level: In the centre of town, the Rose Irish Pub backs on to the Masonic Hotel and serves up excellent pub fare: parmas, burgers and the like. Napier is well served for international cuisine: try Indian at Indigo, and Italian at Trattoria alla Toscana - both are in the centre of town and a 20-minute walk from the stadium. It's also worth heading to Ahuriri, a ten-minute walk away from Napier's CBD, to check out the culinary scene there. For a tiny place, there's plenty to explore: Mexican fare at Mexi Mama is excellent and the Thirsty Whale opposite is a restaurant, bar, club and more.

Budget: As ever in New Zealand, fish and chips is a solid local fresh and cheap option: try Shed 2 Café in Ahuriri, a groovy little seaside suburb with a villagey feel that lies just 20 minutes walk from the city centre (35 from the stadium). For great coffee, hit Groove Kitchen and Two Fat Lattes.

Napier, by its own admission, isn't some wild party town. It's slightly off the well-beaten backpacker route that takes in and tears up Taupo, Rotorua and the like, but fear not, there are still plenty of great places to have a drink. The Rose is worthy of a mention in this section, too. There are pool tables, a good pub quiz, and an excellent selection of beer on tap to complement the fine food mentioned above. As with most towns in New Zealand, there's a Speight's Ale House - this one's in Ahuriri - and a Lone Star right in the town centre, both of which are worth a visit. The Station Bar & Bistro has an excellent decked area and is a short 15-minute stumble from the ground. Check out the Gintrap in Ahuriri, too.

Celebrating at the Art Deco Weekend. Held every February, the festival revives the 1920s and '30s: the folk, the fashion, the motors, the music, the planes, and of course the curves, the long horizontal lines and the colours of the architecture. Nearly 40,000 people visited to take in over 200 events in 2013.

Visiting the MTG, the museum, theatre and gallery - all under one roof - that are located slap bang in the town's centre. The venue puts on plays, music and local exhibitions, contemporary and historical, on varied subjects. The Art Deco centre is just next door, where you can get hold of all sorts of art deco paraphernalia and take an excellent tour of the town's centre, weaving up and down streets, in and out of shops, offices and other everyday-life venues to get a true feel for art deco Napier on the inside and out. Take a stroll along Marine Parade, check out the Pania of the Reef statue (the Pania is a Maori mythological figure and is displayed in bronze on the waterfront; it was stolen in 2005 but is held in similar esteem to Copenhagen's Little Mermaid statue), look at (or if you're lucky, watch a performance at) the Soundshell, and take in the sound of the South Pacific's waves battering the shoreline.

Doing a vineyard tour. There are more than 80 wineries and 100 vineyards in the region, many of which are more than happy to have you come to visit, or even stay. Try some big 'uns for size: Mission Estate, the oldest winery in New Zealand, Trinity Hill and Craggy Range, arguably the best of the bunch, are all slickly run operations. But try a couple of the diddier ones, too: Ngatarawa (pronounced Naa-taa-ra-wa) and Church Road Winery are both super. The area provides 70% of New Zealand's vast stocks of Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% of its Chardonnay, but you'll find fine Rieslings, Merlots and Malbecs, too.

Scaling the heights of Te Mata Peak for 360-degree panoramic views of ocean, vines and hills. Or try climbing Bluff Hill for a stunning look at the water. Heading south, view the gannet colony up at Cape Kidnappers (or get the golf clubs out - the course is fabulous). If you're the all-action type, the sea breeze lends itself to sailing and other water sports, while the sedate pace of life makes casting a line an attractive prospect indeed. Pandora's Pond, a salt-water inlet at Ahuriri, is a great spot for all sorts of water-based activities.