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Tour Diary

St Lucia gets it right

  I had a headache yesterday, but it was a good headache

Andrew McGlashan
Andrew McGlashan
25-Feb-2013

The passion for cricket is alive and kicking in the Caribbean © Getty Images
 
I had a headache yesterday, but it was a good headache. The noise at the Beausejour Stadium was immense as West Indies began their match against Australia. The ground was full – the advantage of a floodlit match rather than an early start – and it was a frenzied atmosphere. Unfortunately for the majority they didn’t have much to shout about.
There were amazing contrasts in emotion. Chris Gayle’s early boundary would have brought the roof, then his quick dismissal created near silence. But the home supporters would cheer again until another wicket fell and the killer blow for them, after giving him a hero’s welcome, was the first-ball loss of local star Darren Sammy. He is a legend in these parts and a golden duck was a sad moment. Minutes later a priest was seen standing in front of one of the stands, but there would be no divine inspiration for West Indies.
Yet despite the defeat it showed what passion is still alive for cricket. If only they had a team who could deliver success more often.
Much has been written about the new Caribbean grounds that sprang up for the 2007 World Cup (a lot of it in this diary over the last 18 months) and how they struggle to capture the true essence of the regions. The Sir Vivian Richards Stadium and Providence could really be grounds anywhere in the world, unlike the ARG and Bourda.
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Soaking in history at Bourda

Like The Rec, there was immediately a sense of history stepping foot into Bourda – the ground itself dates back to 1884

Andrew McGlashan
Andrew McGlashan
25-Feb-2013

The Rohan Kanhai stand at Bourda © Cricinfo
 
There was a sense of déjà vu for me on Saturday. Last year I was in the Caribbean for England’s Test series and, while in Antigua, paid a visit to the famous Recreation ground. This time I'm in Georgetown and I went to visit another great relic of West Indies cricket – the Bourda ground, which used to hold international cricket in this region before the Providence Stadium was built for the 2007 World Cup.
My trip to the place when Brian Lara twice broke the world record for highest Test score became a much longer visit than anyone imagined when the Sir Vivian Richards Stadium was ruled unfit after 10 balls of the second Test and the match was moved to The Rec in less than 48 hours. This time there won’t be any hurried switching of World Twenty20 matches to this old stadium with the Providence outfield free of sand.
Like The Rec, there was immediately a sense of history stepping foot into Bourda – the ground itself dates back to 1884 - making your way over the moat which runs in front of the main entrance much like a medieval castle. But rather than used for keeping out invaders this is to prevent the ground flooding as, like the rest of the town, it is below sea level. Not that water (or more specifically rain) hasn’t played a significant part in Bourda’s history, with England’s Test here in 1990 abandoned without a ball bowled.
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