Tour Diary

So ancient and gothic are certain parts of Bristol that you're transported to another age. Whether it's the Bristol University or the Cathedral Church, formed as early as 1150, in the College Green area the historic touch is ever-present.

Just outside the Marriott Royal, the hotel where the team is staying, is a life-size statue of Raja Ram Mohun Roy (or Rajah Rammohun Roy to the British). Roy, the founder of the Brahmo Samaj, one of the first Indian socio-religious reform movements, died in Stapleton, a village at the north east of Bristol. The plaque at the bottom of the statue describes him thus: "Philosopher, reformer, patriot, scholar. A founding father of Indian renaissance."

At the start of play, most of the spectators took a while to enter the ground. They were packed in outside but “security measures” meant they all needed to be checked before getting in. At the start of the second innings, though, a group of highly-enthusiastic streakers ran amok in the West Stand and it took a while for the security men to drive them out. How inefficient they’d been. They took so long and couldn’t spot the streakers in the pack.

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There are rumours that the first one-dayer at the Rose Bowl might get some coverage in the Indian papers tomorrow. The rest of the pages are set to be filled by developments related to the Indian Cricket League (ICL). England, though, appears largely unaware of all these earth-shattering events. One of the scribes saw the name Ali Murtaza in the list and said, ‘Some Bangladeshis signed up as well?’ Well, actually our dear Mashrafe hasn’t signed up – not as yet, at least – but Ali, the young Uttar Pradesh batsman. Such confusion.

** Having gone missing all day, the sun came out at around 7:10 this evening. Immediately Gautam Gambhir nicked to the wicketkeeper. It was James Anderson’s 100th one-day wicket. The sun won’t be mentioned in the scorecard but it sure deserves credit.

Paul Collingwood is someone you'd call a no-nonsense cricketer. Grinding out runs, nudging the gaps, running the singles hard, fielding energetically and bowling honest spells. Which is why it was startling when he had the media in a shock today. "Hopefully the ball won’t swing as much in the one-dayers," he said. "During the Tests what they did do well was swing the ball both ways. The white ball swings generally in one direction. Hopefully it doesn’t swing both ways.”

Both Angus Fraser and Derek Pringle, former England medium-pacers, were slightly bemused. So what was Colly talking about? Maybe he meant the white ball doesn't reverse-swing. Maybe he was talking about the left-armer's indipper to the right-handed batsmen. Maybe Allan Donald had revealed a dark art.

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Just as Rahul Dravid revealed that Sachin Tendulkar and Sourav Ganguly will be opening the batting, the walls of the Gordon Greenidge suite, where the press conference was held, trembled in appreciation. Hampshire is a county that's seen one of the greatest opening acts in history - Greenidge and Barry Richards - and watching two modern masters take first strike will no doubt bring back fond memories. England, meanwhile, are planning a makeshift combination. The walls, no doubt, quivered with disgust.

John Daly is 41 years old, weighs 100 kgs, likes his drink, puffs away at his cigarettes and makes his living playing golf. Tiger Woods, the great golfer who he competes against, won the USPGA tournament recently and urged all golfers to work out, a fact that helped him combat the heat during the tournament. Daly would have none of it. “"I tried but every time I worked out I threw up and I thought to myself that you can get drunk and throw up, so it's just not for me.”

It’s the sort of spirit you see in Northamptonshire, once home to one of the heaviest weights in cricket, Colin Milburn. Wisden informs us that he normally “hovered around the 18 stone mark” and that he was the largest man to play first-class cricket in England since Warwick Armstrong in 1921. He was also, and this is the most important part, a wonderfully natural player who might have had a glorious international career if not for the fateful car-crash that allowed him only nine Tests.

This is the greatest country in the world. Not because of the kilt, not because of the Glasgow Celtic Football Club, not because of King Bruce’s legacy but simply because they deep fry Mars bars. Chip shops around Glasgow fry the chocolate bar, using it as a batter for puddings, sausages and haggis, a typical Scottish delicacy. The recipe is quite simple. Chill, but do not freeze, the Mars bar by leaving it in a fridge, or freezer, for a short while. Mix the milk, flour and egg in a bowl. Whisk together to create a creamy batter. Heat the oil. Coat the Mars bar completely in batter. Lower into hot oil and fry until batter is golden brown. Serve. Remember, no crackles, no Kit-Kat, no Cadbury. Only Mars bars please.

In terms of priority, though, football is way higher than Mars bars. Last evening the city suddenly turned sleepy. No taxis in sight, hardly any traffic and rows and rows of cars parked on the sideways. After an hour of aimless wandering we are told that the city’s dead state is a weekly phenomenon. “Celtic are playin’ boy,” says what appears to be the only active taxi driver in Glasgow. “Come on, quick. They’re trailin’ by 1.’ We’re told we’re in luck. How on earth? “If Celtic wa playin’ Rangers, you’re goners’.

It's a bank holiday back home but the cricket team, currently in Glasgow, had a relaxed practice session in the picturesque Clydesdale Cricket Club. The rains that had come down over the last few days kept away and the team were greeted by sunny skies and a soothing breeze. There were Independence Day greetings all around, with Chandu Borde, the manager of the side and the only one here who actually witnessed the moment 60 years ago, leading the way. "How can I forget that day," he beamed when asked about India's tryst with destiny. "I was 13 years old and didn't understand what they were talking. We all felt we were independent as kids so it was confusing to hear that there was an Independence Day." A fatherly chuckle. "But yes, I carried an Indian flag all day and ran around the streets of Pune. I knew it was a big moment but didn't know why."

Borde has been the lucky charm for the Indian team over the years. "After my playing days I have been with the team in different capacities. But never have they lost. The luck continues."

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Dean Headley, the former England fast bowler, was at The Oval today. He misses being there, but only like everyone else. "I don't think of it negatively, as in I wish I was still playing. I think of it positively, like anyone else in the ground and say, 'I wish I was still playing'.There's a fine difference, if you know what I'm saying." Yes, Dean, of course we understand.

Walking out of the Oval station, on the northern line of the London Underground, one sees different cricketing paintings on the wall, representing batting styles, bowling actions and fielding postures. The bowling illustration is most interesting.

Gordon Rorke played just four Tests for Australia, all in 1959, but had an unmistakable action. Strangely he never played a Test in England, leave alone The Oval, but still finds his action portrayed on the wall of a famous station. In fact Rorke’s only Tests were in Australia and India, in a career which was dogged with controversy over chucking and ‘drag’.

As talk of Zaheer Khan and jelly-gate slowly dies down, one mustn't forget The Oval circa 1994. Thirteen years ago Devon Malcolm was struck on the helmet while batting against South Africa. His badge came off when he missed a Fanie de Villiers bouncer and, when the South Africans laughed, he shot back: "You guys are history". Enraged, he destroyed them with a spell of 9 for 57 and helped England level the series. India's bowlers beware. Don't anger Anderson, Tremlett or Sidebottom in this Test. Don't become history; create it.