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Tour Diary

Not quite the home of cricket

Imagine a cabbie in Melbourne not knowing how to get to the MCG, or his counterpart in New York staring at you blankly when you ask to go to Yankee Stadium

Imagine a cabbie in Melbourne not knowing how to get to the MCG, or his counterpart in New York staring at you blankly when you ask to go to Yankee Stadium. You can't. But in Kuala Lumpur, where cricket really isn't part of the nation's sporting psyche, blank looks are usually what you get when you get in and ask to be taken to the Kinrara Oval. Located in the suburb of Puchong, it's more than a half-hour drive from the city's commercial hub, and exact directions and a gaze or two at the road map are necessary before you can head off in the right direction.
Along the way, you pass the National Stadium at Bukit Jalil, a magnificent structure that seats 100,000 which hosted the Commonwealth Games in 1998. And nearer the airport is another sporting venue that Malaysians are immensely proud of - the Formula-One circuit at Sepang. As my cabbie tells me earnestly, cricket doesn't really register here. The main newspapers have opted for agency coverage of these matches, and the lack of interest was evident as West Indies and Australia played out the opening game in front of empty plastic seats and upholstered chairs.
"Soccer is the most popular game," he tells me seriously, before adding that despite the government's best efforts, the national team languishes outside the top 100 in the FIFA rankings. When it comes to national sporting icons, you have to look towards badminton - remember the famous Sidek brothers? - and squash, where Nicole David now heads the women's rankings. They also have a handy hockey team, once coached by Australian legend Terry Walsh.
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Welcoming Kinrara

Flanked by a mosque on one side and the highway on the other, the picturesque Kinrara Oval is a welcome addition to the many venues that dot modern-day cricket's landscape

Flanked by a mosque on one side and the highway on the other, the picturesque Kinrara Oval is a welcome addition to the many venues that dot modern-day cricket's landscape. After the space-age Sheik Zayed Stadium in Abu Dhabi and the lovely Warner Park in Basseterre, it's Kinrara's turn to bask in the debutante's spotlight. Unlike many of its utterly soulless concrete counterparts, its gives off an impression of space and light, surrounded by trees and with a few mini-pagoda-like constructions that resemble the stands named after the Chappell brothers at the Adelaide Oval.
The Adelaide connection doesn't quite end there either. Les Burdett, the curator in Adelaide, has been entrusted with preparation of the pitches here, and apart from the dodgy bounce that dismissed Ricky Ponting, he has every reason to be pleased with his efforts. With the players seated on plastic chairs beneath picnic umbrellas, the impression of a laid-back outing in the country is further reinforced. The only thing that isn't idyllic is the afternoon heat, and the humidity that makes you imagine that you're locked into a sauna.
The Oval came into being in 2003, with a team from New Zealand helping out with the turf, and there are now six strips that can be used. The four floodlight towers took just four weeks to construct, and the Board of Control for Cricket in India (BCCI) have invested the lion's share of the US$465,000 spent on them. Sadly though, the whole purpose of the exercise - the lofty aim of spreading cricket's message at non-traditional venues - appears to have been defeated by the lack of public interest.
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'We need matches, brother'

They departed under the cover of darkness, an embattled team that wanted nothing more than to return home

They departed under the cover of darkness, an embattled team that wanted nothing more than to return home. Tempers had been frayed by the “chicken” headlines in the morning newspapers, but by 11pm, when they boarded the coach to the airport, the smiles were back on most faces. Mark Boucher wasn’t one of those grinning, his face still a dark mask, and the Sri Lankan journalist who insinuated that Boucher was a bully can count himself lucky now that plenty of air miles separate him from South Africa’s stand-in captain.
On Thursday night, with the decision to leave having been taken, most of the players could be seen in the coffee shop or downstairs in the pub. Ashwell Prince was one of those around the pool table, and he and Shane Jabbar, the physio, played out a tightly contested game against yours truly and Gordon Templeton, the media manager.
It’s uncanny how those who excel at one sport that requires terrific hand-eye co-ordination are usually proficient at several others. Prince’s pool was not too different from his batting – calculated, composed and devoid of any flash. There was still time though for Makhaya Ntini to come by and deliver a mini-sledge before walking upstairs where he held court in the coffee shop with Loots Bosman and Thandi Tshabalala.
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'It's just a game, man'

As sports fans, we've heard all the clichés a million times

As sports fans, we've heard all the clichés a million times. "Winning isn't everything, it's the only thing", "Cricket is life, the rest mere details" and so forth. At times like this, you begin to realise just how much garbage it is. As a South African player told me in the hotel lobby a couple of hours after the bomb went off, "It's just a game, man. Heck, I want to bowl to Sachin [Tendulkar], but not if I can't feel safe about where I am."
Another senior South African player was even more candid. "If we hadn't been playing today, we'd probably have been out shopping. And a lot of us have been to Liberty Plaza before."
I found out about the blast on the way to the stadium. Pouring rain had already ruled out any prospect of play starting before early evening, but when the phone trilled, there was more than a weather forecast to worry about. When told, my driver didn't panic. "Best not to go toward the stadium," he said. So I asked him to turn around and head towards the Taj Samudra instead.
It took us nearly an hour to get within range, the roads choc-a-bloc with cars and tuk-tuks full of people presumably heading home. When he found out that I was from India, the driver's mood deteriorated. "You Indians helped this LTTE (Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam)," he said sourly, even as I sat mute, not wanting to be drawn into a debate on a conflict where the fault-lines run so deep.
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Lasting memories

It's been 54 days since I landed in Kingston, days spent in cricket grounds resembling a carnival setting, in hotels resembling home, in beaches resembling images on exotic postcards, and in departure lounges resembling anything between bus

It's been 54 days since I landed in Kingston, days spent in cricket grounds resembling a carnival setting, in hotels resembling home, in beaches resembling images on exotic postcards, and in departure lounges resembling anything between bus stations to seven-star hotels. As is always the case, sometimes I felt it was all happening too fast; sometimes I just wanted it to end then and there.
Visiting the West Indies fulfilled a lot of my childhood ambitions. As a 15-year-old night life usually involved staying awake late, tip-toeing onto the television room, muting the sound, and watching cricket from the Caribbean. The passion that was on show – the sight of people dancing in the stands, fans watching from trees, spectators constantly providing advice to the batsman – never ceased to fascinate.
The flair that accompanied the West Indian cricketers – Hooper's smoothest of smooth cover-drives, Lara's square cut hit on the jump, Ambrose's bouncers which batsmen only smelt – made the game a true spectacle. Then there was my grandfather, a die-hard West Indies fan, who somehow always insisted that my dear Azhar was not a patch on Lawrence Rowe when it came to style. The best part was he's never seen Rowe bat, but only heard and read about his exploits.
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Coney and the art of pitch analysis

There are different ways to do a pitch report. Jeremy Coney, the former New Zealand captain, has probably covered the entire range. He’s attached a ball to a string to exorcise it, recited a poem to describe it, and once, late last year, almost did a breast stroke on land while knocking his knuckles on the pitch. Coney, who during his playing days was hailed for his ability to read pitches, loves analysing the 22 yards. On the eve of every game one can see him scrutinising the surface, tapping on it, inspecting the grass, feeling the clay … It’s almost as if he was a horticulturist on some scientific mission.
So what does Coney look for during his investigations? “I call it reading the entrails,” he says enthusiastically when asked about this whole business. “I ask myself questions as I go along. Is there grass? Is it distributed evenly? How is it shared around? Are there gaps? What sort of grass is it? Are they new young plants? Are they stressed because of lack of water? All this will tell me whether the pitch is going to be quicker at the start, or whether the ball will skid on from the grass (which is always the fastest). If it’s an old plant, the ball will hit the crown and start to do some strange things. If there is dirt there is automatically more friction. So if there are bald patches, I will know that this pitch is going to be variable and will only get worse from that point.”
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