A city as multifaceted as a diamond
There's a Hyderabad beyond the clichés of biryani, pearls and the Charminar to be discovered in the time between matches
S Kaur
31-Mar-2017
Dress up and play royal at the Chowmahalla Palace in Hyderabad • Getty Images
Once upon a time Hyderabad was home to the richest man in the world - Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam to rule the kingdom, the only one to allegedly use a diamond the size of an ostrich egg as a paperweight. This is where the glittering royalty associated with ancient India took its final bow, where the last hedonistic courts were held.
All that is gone now. What remains is a culture that cannot easily be grouped with those of either north or south India. It is unique to Hyderabad, revealing itself in the classic and the contemporary alike, in language, music and architecture, even in the glamorous cricket legacy the city's talented sportsmen have left behind.
Meet the poet-builder
The story of Hyderabad started with a charming gentleman called Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah. He was a poet credited with the world's first published anthology in Urdu, but his finest achievement was Hyderabad, the city he founded and built for his lover 426 years ago. The Qutb Shahi Tombs, where he lies buried, are the quietest, leafiest spot in the city today. For a sense of perspective, head also to the recently restored Chowmahalla Palace, where the Nizams resided, and where you too can dress in regal gear and walk into the in-house photo booth for documentary evidence.
The story of Hyderabad started with a charming gentleman called Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah. He was a poet credited with the world's first published anthology in Urdu, but his finest achievement was Hyderabad, the city he founded and built for his lover 426 years ago. The Qutb Shahi Tombs, where he lies buried, are the quietest, leafiest spot in the city today. For a sense of perspective, head also to the recently restored Chowmahalla Palace, where the Nizams resided, and where you too can dress in regal gear and walk into the in-house photo booth for documentary evidence.
Play it sufi
While "Sufi nights" in bars and "Sufi" Bollywood songs become part of pop culture across metros, qawwali still exists in its truest musical form in the dargahs (shrines of Sufi saints) where it originated.
While "Sufi nights" in bars and "Sufi" Bollywood songs become part of pop culture across metros, qawwali still exists in its truest musical form in the dargahs (shrines of Sufi saints) where it originated.
Hyderabad's strong tradition of qawwali is evident in its many established qawwal families who perform at international festivals. Dargah Yousufain in Nampally echoes with music every day until 11 pm; show up on a Thursday evening and you get a real mehfil, spilling into the wee hours.
Find your language
When the Mughal Empire folded, it was to Hyderabad that poets from north India fled, looking for shelter and patronage. Although Urdu was common, Hyderabad's own beloved tongue was Dakhni, in which much poetry and prose was written, and which can still be heard at mazahiya mushairas (humorous poetry symposia) and conversations in the old city's Irani cafes. Also in the area is the Salar Jung Museum, which has over 62,000 books in languages as diverse as Oriya and Turkish to browse through.
When the Mughal Empire folded, it was to Hyderabad that poets from north India fled, looking for shelter and patronage. Although Urdu was common, Hyderabad's own beloved tongue was Dakhni, in which much poetry and prose was written, and which can still be heard at mazahiya mushairas (humorous poetry symposia) and conversations in the old city's Irani cafes. Also in the area is the Salar Jung Museum, which has over 62,000 books in languages as diverse as Oriya and Turkish to browse through.
Have a cookie
Osmania biscuits have just the right amount of sweet and salt to be the best possible accompaniment to a cup of tea. Some say it was Mir Osman Ali Khan's desire that led to the creation of this particular delicacy; others credit the dieticians of Osmania General Hospital. Either way, here's a biscuit made exclusively for chai, and only in Hyderabad. Buy a pack from Karachi Bakery at the airport, or head to the Charminar area for local favourites like Nimrah and Farasha.
Osmania biscuits have just the right amount of sweet and salt to be the best possible accompaniment to a cup of tea. Some say it was Mir Osman Ali Khan's desire that led to the creation of this particular delicacy; others credit the dieticians of Osmania General Hospital. Either way, here's a biscuit made exclusively for chai, and only in Hyderabad. Buy a pack from Karachi Bakery at the airport, or head to the Charminar area for local favourites like Nimrah and Farasha.
Get a home brew
The city's burgeoning cyber crowd likes its beer fresh and frothy, and Hyderabad's rooftop pubs and microbreweries are catering to the demand with panache. Coco's is one of the oldest, most loved watering holes in town, and has live music in the evenings. Nearby, in Film Nagar, is MOB, offering 16 Belgian brews imported in kegs. The most recent addition to the city's spiritscape is microbreweries, which began making a mark in 2016. Of these, Prost in Jubilee Hills is a good place to start.
The city's burgeoning cyber crowd likes its beer fresh and frothy, and Hyderabad's rooftop pubs and microbreweries are catering to the demand with panache. Coco's is one of the oldest, most loved watering holes in town, and has live music in the evenings. Nearby, in Film Nagar, is MOB, offering 16 Belgian brews imported in kegs. The most recent addition to the city's spiritscape is microbreweries, which began making a mark in 2016. Of these, Prost in Jubilee Hills is a good place to start.
Rock the talk
The rocks strewn around Hyderabad, some of them in gravity-defying formations, are 2500 million years old. That is about half as old as the planet. Join a guided Rock Walk around town, conducted by the Society to Save Rocks, brainchild of eminent local historian Narendra Luther, to help save the natural relics from becoming casualties of development. To get closer still to these prehistoric boulders, hook up with the Great Hyderabad Adventure Club for rock-climbing sessions in areas like Khajaguda and Trimulgherry.
The rocks strewn around Hyderabad, some of them in gravity-defying formations, are 2500 million years old. That is about half as old as the planet. Join a guided Rock Walk around town, conducted by the Society to Save Rocks, brainchild of eminent local historian Narendra Luther, to help save the natural relics from becoming casualties of development. To get closer still to these prehistoric boulders, hook up with the Great Hyderabad Adventure Club for rock-climbing sessions in areas like Khajaguda and Trimulgherry.
Be a culture vulture
In the seven years since it opened its gates to the public as a cultural centre, Lamakaan has hosted numerous arts events that have established it as an indispensable Hyderabad performance space. Book launches, classical music recitals, theatre, workshops, photography exhibitions, and dance and poetry performances are regulars here.
In the seven years since it opened its gates to the public as a cultural centre, Lamakaan has hosted numerous arts events that have established it as an indispensable Hyderabad performance space. Book launches, classical music recitals, theatre, workshops, photography exhibitions, and dance and poetry performances are regulars here.
Shop the region
Tired of going from shop to shop, one gift at a time? Head to Shilparamam, an arts and crafts bazaar, somewhat like the Dilli Haat of the south. Here you can find everything from Andhra silk saris, Channapatna toys and Guntur pickles to, yes, Hyderabadi pearls. They also host classical and folk music performances.
Tired of going from shop to shop, one gift at a time? Head to Shilparamam, an arts and crafts bazaar, somewhat like the Dilli Haat of the south. Here you can find everything from Andhra silk saris, Channapatna toys and Guntur pickles to, yes, Hyderabadi pearls. They also host classical and folk music performances.
Laze by a lake
There are close to 50 nature parks and over 2000 lakes within the city's extended periphery, and thankfully, they aren't frothing over with toxic foam like water bodies in some Indian cities. These parks and lakes are the pride of Hyderabad. Some were hunting grounds of royalty, while others, like the Osman Sagar Lake, are well-frequented picnic spots. Try Lotus Pond in Jubilee Hills for birdwatching, or take a long walk in the 390-acre KBR Park.
There are close to 50 nature parks and over 2000 lakes within the city's extended periphery, and thankfully, they aren't frothing over with toxic foam like water bodies in some Indian cities. These parks and lakes are the pride of Hyderabad. Some were hunting grounds of royalty, while others, like the Osman Sagar Lake, are well-frequented picnic spots. Try Lotus Pond in Jubilee Hills for birdwatching, or take a long walk in the 390-acre KBR Park.
Trip out on Tollywood
The mammoth Telugu cinema industry is the stuff of legend. You needn't know who Pawan Kalyan or Mahesh Babu are to make the most of it, nor do you need to hang around in Film Nagar. Make your way to RTC Crossroads, where popular single-screen theatres such as Sandhya and Sudarshan open the newest Telugu greats to manic crowds. If this piques your interest, also consider a day trip to the sprawling Ramoji Film City for a long look behind the scenes.
The mammoth Telugu cinema industry is the stuff of legend. You needn't know who Pawan Kalyan or Mahesh Babu are to make the most of it, nor do you need to hang around in Film Nagar. Make your way to RTC Crossroads, where popular single-screen theatres such as Sandhya and Sudarshan open the newest Telugu greats to manic crowds. If this piques your interest, also consider a day trip to the sprawling Ramoji Film City for a long look behind the scenes.