Infamous kulfis and babysitting umpires

`Aisa koi saga nahin, jisko hamne thaga nahin.' (There is no relative whom we haven't conned); `Badnam kulfi.' (Infamous kulfi). Caught your attention? These banners definitely caught mine. There are numerous ways of marketing a brand, but I have never seen one like that. Thaggu ke laddu is the name of the shop, renowned for its delicacies - mostly dairy products like sweets and kulfis. Kanpur is famous for many things, but your reporter was not prepared for this.

Even though it is the biggest industrial city in Uttar Pradesh, there is hardly anything modern here. And the best way to guage that fact is the mode of commuting: the simplest, fastest and the best way to get to a place is by the cycle rickshaws.

Initially you feel bad, seeing a fellow human grind and sweat and work his way through the busy streets to take you to your destination. But you end up in a cycle rickshaw anyway, as the other common modes of transport - buses and tuk-tuks - are very badly maintained and always drop you midway at the chourahas (crossroads). After having experienced a ride in the bus, where I had to park myself on a seat which stood on a vertical line of bricks, I decided to opt for the lesser mode of transport. No wonder the kids were shouting "phatichar" as the bus went past, which means atrocious.

Once famous for its leather production, Kanpur, which was Cawnpore during the British rule, is one of the most polluted, dirty, messy and unregulated towns in the country. It votes in six Members of Parliament, and was named one of the eight metropolises in India, but still doesn't have an airport. But it is an attractive town to visit.

One of the chief attractions in the small towns of India are the people. Complete strangers stop you, strike up a conversation, ask you for an autograph, wave at you and treat you as if you are a celebrity. Their simplicity is heartening for a person living in the woeful big cities.

This simple fact was visible when the Aussies umpiring duo of Simon Taufel and Daryl Harper, here to officiate the game, were invited to a UNESCO function to spread the polio immunization awareness campaign at the team hotel. As if the grown up men don't test their patience on the field of play, parent after parent put their young ones into the hands of the umpires to take photographs. It was an endearing moment to see both men playfully chat with the kids and their parents, and patiently answer all the questions. The way the umpires transformed themselves into baby-sitters was the attraction of the evening.

A young girl of 12 insisted on meeting Irfan Pathan. Why Irfan? Blame it on television Irfan has acted in commercials that show children around him, with Irfan becoming one of them, joining them in their games. The girl was attracted to that simplicity, and she wanted to meet him because of that. She goes away disappointed. But she will come back again. Just like her hero.

Outside, the haziness in the air refuses to vanish, and the cycle-rickshawallah lounges on his breadwinner, smoking a bidi, waiting for the next customer. This time even I am waiting for my next ride.