Quintessential Australia

Instantly recognisable for its iconic Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge, Sydney is Australia's largest and oldest European settlement, built around one of the most spectacular harbours in the world. While Darling Harbour and the Circular Quay are this city's most popular hangouts, it has other attractions too. These include the Historic Rocks, the Victorian-era Paddington, beautiful beaches such as Bondi and Manly, and two superb coastal national parks on the fringes of the city.

Along with its variegated natural bounty, Sydney has an array of ethnic groups contributing to its social fabric. There are large Chinese and Indian populations that, among other things, make for some fabulous Asian and Indian restaurants.

While most other Australian cities have their pilot history markers set somewhere in the 1800s, Sydney's first European settlement was established in 1788. Sydney is built on land once occupied by the Eora tribe, whose presence lingers in the place names of some suburbs and whose artistic legacy can be seen at many Aboriginal engraving sites around the city. Modern, fast-paced Sydney is where unperturbed hedonism, impetuous diligence and a rollicking nightlife come together to make a city that is one of the best places in the world to live in.

The fun and games continue at the Sydney Cricket Ground, which is quite close to Paddington.

What to pack: Sydney's waterside location means that it is susceptible to rain all year round, so pack an umbrella or a rain jumper. A light jacket should suffice against the chill in February. Smart casuals and even a set of formal clothes (and shoes) are always a good idea for this chic city.

High-end: Adina Apartment Hotel Sydney is located right in the heart of the CBD. It is walking distance from all the city's major attractions, including Darling Harbour. Medusa Boutique Hotel is everything Sydney is: decadent, flashy and very sexy. It has 18 rooms that are a blend of modern and contemporary, with huge beds, and kitted out with gizmos and gadgets. It is located in Darlinghurst, a 25-minute walk from the cricket stadium. Sydney Harbour Bed and Breakfast, despite its name, is a full-fledged luxury hotel in an old Victorian mansion. The rooms have been named after famous figures in Sydney's history and feature handcrafted colonial furniture.

Mid-range: Hotel Ibis is located very conveniently in Darling Harbour and some of its rooms feature lovely views. Arts Hotel is located on Oxford Street in Paddington, an area known for arts and fashion. It is a heritage conservation area famous for its Victorian terrace houses and village atmosphere. On Saturdays you can visit Paddington Markets, Sydney's liveliest and most popular street market. Victoria Court Hotel is in the vibrant Kings Cross suburb and a 35-minute walk from the stadium. While Kings Cross has a reputation of being noisy and loud, this is a quiet little hotel with old-world service, housed in two sensitively renovated Victorian houses.

Budget: Eva's Backpackers is conveniently located at 8 Orwell Street in the heart of King's Cross, Sydney's lively and cosmopolitan café, pub and nightlife district. It's a 40-minute walk from the cricket stadium. Highfield Hotel is budget accommodation in the CBD and that makes it very good value for money. It is clean, homely and environmentally friendly. Surfside Backpackers on Bondi Beach is a great option if you want to stay on the beach.

High-end: Tetsuya's is located in a refurbished heritage-listed site that overlooks an exquisite Japanese garden. Chefs Tetsuya Wakuda and Kevin Mok serve up a ten-course degustation dedicated to the Japanese philosophy of using seasonal flavours, enhanced by classic French technique. At Est., chic antique decor and floor-length windows make for a relaxed yet luxurious atmosphere in the heart of Sydney. Chef Peter Doyle presents an elegant and original menu that boasts a variety of local fresh produce and imported delicacies. But the most dramatic dinners are to be had at Guillaume at Bennelong, located beneath the southernmost sail of the Opera House. Chef Guillaume Brahimi caters for all occasions with a variety of menus, while sommelier John Clancy impresses with an expansive wine list.

Mid-range: The best Thai food in Sydney is to be had at Sailor's Thai Canteen, a benchmark of the city's history with the immigrant community. For fantastic breakfasts, head to Fratelli Paradiso at Potts Point. It's not your usual eggs and toast place: their breakfast creations are unique and gourmet. Chinta Ria Temple of Love may sound like a massage parlour, but it is actually a Malaysian restaurant with food that is a fusion of Indian, Chinese and Malay and serves food street style. The laksa is worth trying.

Budget: Emperor's Garden is a seafood and barbeque restaurant. It is great value for money and also offers takeaway. Balkan is the designated destination for carnivores. Be warned: vegetarians will feel a bit short-changed.

The brashest party place in Sydney is King's Cross. A notorious hangout of sailors during the 19th century, it is now quite spruced up but the spirit of the old days still exists in some places. Q Bar is touted as the hangout for everyone from hippies to hardcore rockers and from punks to queers. Loud and very in your face. Home is a monster-sized pleasure dome sprawling over three levels. This club's sound system makes other clubs sound as if they are plugged into a shortwave radio. It can hold 2000 people and gets packed on weekends.

Figuring out your sea legs on Bondi Beach. You just need to turn up there in your bathers and with a towel and surfing will find you. There are plenty of surf schools who will sign you up on the spot. They are good and will have you standing on a board in a day.

Climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge. This is the "must do" Sydney experience. You will be given a space-age suit to wear over your normal clothes and climb to the very topmost arch of the bridge. It is all very exciting and perfectly safe. But you have to be sober and your breath is analysed before the climb.

Exploring markets at Paddington on Saturday and Bondi Beach on Sunday. This is really fun and you never know what you might come across.

Doing a day-trip to the Blue Mountains, two hours away. The main town here is called Katoomba.