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Tour Diary

Masterful menu for would-be Test masters

Duck was not in the menu but Derby County Cricket Ground has probably never seen such as a spread

Firdose Moonda
Firdose Moonda
25-Feb-2013

Duck was not in the menu but Derby County Cricket Ground has probably never seen such as a spread. The South Africa team were treated to a gourmet meal courtesy of the country's first Masterchef winner, Deena Naidoo, who was flown to the UK specifically to cook for the team by pay-channel broadcaster M-Net.

Naidoo won the TV cookery title little over two weeks ago and is in the process of setting up a restaurant in Johannesburg as part of his prize. For a special insert on the channel, Naidoo presented a three-course meal to the squad, because "they are on the verge of becoming the No. 1 side in the world," one of the producers said.

Although the feast could have been prepared for the national rugby team, who have convened in Cape Town, or the Olympic athletes who are in London, the cricket squad was chosen by media mogul Koos Bekker, who is the chief executive of M-Net. South Africa still have one Test match to go, the Lord's fixture which starts next Thursday, which they must not lose if they hope to top the Test rankings but Masterchef were only able to get access to them in a week that did not include an international match.

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Lonely Hambantota, lovely Pallekele

Hambantota and Pallekele. Two names we had heard frequently and always together in the run up to the 2011 World Cup, as the locations for the new stadiums Sri Lanka was building

Abhishek Purohit
Abhishek Purohit
25-Feb-2013

Hambantota and Pallekele. Two names we had heard frequently and always together in the run up to the 2011 World Cup, as the locations for the new stadiums Sri Lanka was building. Both modern facilities, with grandstands and grass banks. One close to the southern coast; one in the mountains. Both amid forests. One difficult to access, one comfortably reachable.

The Mahinda Rajapaksa International Cricket Stadium has to be one of the remotest grounds in cricket. It takes its name from the coastal town of Hambantota, but is located at least 35km north of it. That would have been still bearable but apart from the hotel where the teams stay, there hardly seem to be any decent hotels in Hambantota town. Our hotel is in Tissamaharama, a town north-east of Hambantota and close to the Yala National Park. The town is surrounded by lakes and fields. The stadium is around 60km away.

One has to take the road southwest towards Hambantota and then turn northwards for the ground. The second leg of the journey is a completely out-of-place looking four-lane stretch. You train your eyes on the horizon, and struggle to count even four vehicles using the road. A thick forest lies on both sides. Forget a stadium, you'll be lucky to spot a house or two. Just when you actually start to think that you might have taken the wrong route, the stadium rises suddenly out of the forest. We have drop-in pitches, this seems like a drop-in stadium. There is next to nothing close by. At night the ground glistens in floodlights surrounded by endless darkness.

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Time for a ladies tea

It's not often that something in cricket is done with ladies in mind

Firdose Moonda
Firdose Moonda
25-Feb-2013

It's not often that something in cricket is done with ladies in mind. While the women's game and interest around it has grown, it will be many years before it is regarded the same way as the men's. For now, the participation of female representatives remains limited.

Often I am the only woman journalist on a full length tour, although I sometimes meet girlfriends along the way. At home, Jenny Bernstein of the South African Press Association is my BFF, in India ESPNcricinfo's Sharda Ugra and I chat over tea and in England I have bumped into, lunched and dined with Elizabeth Ammon and Sarah Ansell of SPIN cricket and Alison Mitchell of the BBC. But in places like New Zealand, Zimbabwe, Bangladesh, I've flown solo.

Don't think of that as a complaint. I've been lucky to have been accepted by my male colleagues as one of the boys and most of the time, there's no-one I'd rather be. But on the days when we go from eight hours of working on the cricket to four hours of watching rugby in the pub to endless conversations about golf swings, football leagues and boxing matches, it can get a little lonely.

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The colourful drive to Hambantota

Slight trepidation as I queue up in immigration at Mumbai airport for my first international flight. The bureaucratic expression of the officer turns into a broad smile as I answer 'cricket' to his question 'purpose of visit'

Abhishek Purohit
Abhishek Purohit
25-Feb-2013

Slight trepidation as I queue up in immigration at Mumbai airport for my first international flight. The bureaucratic expression of the officer turns into a broad smile as I answer 'cricket' to his question 'purpose of visit'. "You are the first person, at least in my queue, going for this Sri Lanka series," he says. I settle into my window seat on the flight, and watch Juhu beach disappear quickly from sight. Didn't know it would happen, but there is an air of finality to the moment the plane crosses the last lights of the southern Indian mainland and the blackness of the sea takes over.

Colombo arrives in a flood of bright white lights, as opposed to the neon yellow of most Indian cities. The southern coastal town of Hambantota, the venue for the first two ODIs, is a long drive away. Our car, an old Nissan model, bypasses Colombo city, taking a two-lane road towards Ratnapura in central Sri Lanka. Apart from the fact that it is narrow, the road is in top condition. Hardly a jolt. This isn't India, alright. Here, they call two-lane roads what they are to be called - roads. Good or bad, but still a road. Unlike in India, where anything connecting two cities passes for a highway. Good or bad.

There is one thing common, though. Overtaking. Taxis, buses, trucks, everyone wants to overtake. It is a fine art, overtaking. Requires courage and skill on a two-lane road.

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The Pakistan journalists go AWOL

Not surprisingly, a question I was often asked, especially in the smaller towns like Hambantota, Galle and Kandy, was "are you from Pakistan?"

Not surprisingly, a question I was often asked, especially in the smaller towns like Hambantota, Galle and Kandy, was "are you from Pakistan?" My face may have been the most obvious giveaway and my accent meant that I couldn't pass off for a local. I had to explain that I had come from India, covering a series between two teams as a neutral. The advantage with being a neutral is that you're more or less free of leg-pulls from the local journalists.

It comes with its challenges too, especially when it comes to the spoken language. I was caught in one such awkward situation when Tillakaratne Dilshan gave a press conference during the one-day series in Colombo. The Pakistan journalists gave it a miss, leaving me as the odd one out among the Sri Lankan journalists. Perhaps Dilshan didn't notice. The questions were in Sinhalese and so were the answers. In such situations, it's a bit difficult to figure out if the particular question you wanted to ask has already been asked. I had absolutely no clue what was being talked about. I waited for a break and posed a question on his current batting form. Dilshan was caught a bit off guard by the sudden change of language. He duly answered the question. But I realised that I had sidetracked Dilshan from the hot-topic of the day - his captaincy, why he gave it up and his comments on Mahela Jayawardene possibly staying captain till the 2015 World Cup. I got the quotes translated and, not surprisingly, I didn't bother mentioning my question in the copy because it seemed irrelevant.

The press conferences were fairly hassle free, sometimes conducted with just a handful of journalists. Mohammad Hafeez was perplexed by the absence of Pakistan journalists in one such presser. When Misbah-ul-Haq walked in for the final presser of the tour in Pallekele, he appeared amused that there were no Pakistan journalists there either. He must have expected the brickbats and testing questions that usually torment captains after a series loss. He couldn't have had it easier.

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