Tour Diary

Searching for civilians in Palam

The Palam A Ground is a bit old-fashioned, one Mumbai man saying it reminded him of an English league venue

Sharda Ugra
Sharda Ugra
25-Feb-2013
The Palam A Ground is a bit old-fashioned, one Mumbai man saying it reminded him of an English league venue. It is open on all sides, its proximity to the Delhi's domestic airport means there is no high-rise interference to the weather. Traffic tootles around the ground, Delhi's horn concerto sounding intermittently and aircrafts routinely take off at either end of the wicket. In the morning session, flights of all sizes fly over the single-storey pavilion. In the afternoon, the larger commercial aircrafts take off from the old domestic terminal and soar over the far end of the ground.
On day one, a brass band sounded as the teams warmed-up at the start of play. The Air Force men said it was the army band practicing for the Republic Day parade. On day two, they were not to be heard, they could have headed out to a dress rehearsal in other parts of the city's vast cantonment. The frisky rain and miserable light conditions on Thursday meant there were no aircrafts to be sighted over Palam in the morning, as Ajit Agarkar and Aditya Tare tried to give the Mumbai innings any lift-off in the semi-final.
Palam's open elements are diametrically opposite to the ground's other rules: as it is a part of the Air Force cantonement, it is shut off for civilians. The only manner of civilians allowed inside the compound where Services and Mumbai are playing their Ranji Trophy semi-finals are the players, their support staff, match officials, and journalists. Whenever foreigners turn up at the gates, like South African 'exchange' umpire Adrian Holdstock for this game, the BCCI must get approvals and permissions sorted out in advance. The last time the Indian team trained here, the BCCI had to supply the paperwork, scanned passport copies etc, for all its overseas support staff well in time.
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New looks for Australian cricket grounds

Before the iconic arc of Moses Mabhida held up the Durban sky, there was a grotty grey concrete block masquerading as a football stadium in its place

Firdose Moonda
Firdose Moonda
25-Feb-2013
Before the iconic arc of Moses Mabhida held up the Durban sky, there was a grotty grey concrete block masquerading as a football stadium in its place. It was so nondescript that I can barely remember it. But I have vivid recollections of how the new stadium grew each time I went back to Durban. Over three years from 2006, what started as a building site turned into a gleaming white façade.
All over the country, works of art were being erected. Not far from my home in Johannesburg, the calabash shaped Soccer City was being sculpted, in Port Elizabeth the Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium was taking the shape of the Sydney Opera House, and in Nelspruit giraffe-shaped supports held together the Mbombela Stadium. It seemed as though the whole country was under construction.
The ten theatres of dreams that were being refurbished, and in some cases created, were for the 2010 Football World Cup. Australia's Cricket World Cup is still three years away, but there is building going on at three of the four grounds I've visited on this tour, and only in Perth is the construction because of cricket.
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Comptons connect across Indian Ocean

Cricket tours are like mazes - mazes of tunnels actually. Weeks are spent in a foreign country, discovering new things and working hard. The hours melt into days which spill over into weeks.

Firdose Moonda
Firdose Moonda
25-Feb-2013
Cricket tours are like mazes - mazes of tunnels actually. Weeks are spent in a foreign country, discovering new things and working hard. The hours melt into days which spill over into weeks. It is exciting and challenging at the same time and you get completely absorbed into what you are doing. Save for the odd phone call back home, glances at the morning news or meals out with colleagues, there is little time or space for anything else, especially not any other cricket.
But on this Australia tour, at least one mind has wandered elsewhere. Patrick Compton, a journalist with the South Africa's Independent Newspaper Group, is the uncle of England's new opening batsmen Nick. He has been following the series in India with much interest, fielding many questions about his nephew's background and journey and is always happy to share.
The Compton family are well-known and well-respected. Denis' triple-century in Benoni is the stuff of legend and both Patrick and his brother, Nick's father Richard, are much admired for their roles in non-racial cricket in Natal. Nick, though born in Durban, had his destiny mapped out for him in England early on when he was offered a cricket scholarship to Harrow school in London at the age of 15.
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Masterful menu for would-be Test masters

Duck was not in the menu but Derby County Cricket Ground has probably never seen such as a spread

Firdose Moonda
Firdose Moonda
25-Feb-2013
Duck was not in the menu but Derby County Cricket Ground has probably never seen such as a spread. The South Africa team were treated to a gourmet meal courtesy of the country's first Masterchef winner, Deena Naidoo, who was flown to the UK specifically to cook for the team by pay-channel broadcaster M-Net.
Naidoo won the TV cookery title little over two weeks ago and is in the process of setting up a restaurant in Johannesburg as part of his prize. For a special insert on the channel, Naidoo presented a three-course meal to the squad, because "they are on the verge of becoming the No. 1 side in the world," one of the producers said.
Although the feast could have been prepared for the national rugby team, who have convened in Cape Town, or the Olympic athletes who are in London, the cricket squad was chosen by media mogul Koos Bekker, who is the chief executive of M-Net. South Africa still have one Test match to go, the Lord's fixture which starts next Thursday, which they must not lose if they hope to top the Test rankings but Masterchef were only able to get access to them in a week that did not include an international match.
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Lonely Hambantota, lovely Pallekele

Hambantota and Pallekele. Two names we had heard frequently and always together in the run up to the 2011 World Cup, as the locations for the new stadiums Sri Lanka was building

Abhishek Purohit
Abhishek Purohit
25-Feb-2013
Hambantota and Pallekele. Two names we had heard frequently and always together in the run up to the 2011 World Cup, as the locations for the new stadiums Sri Lanka was building. Both modern facilities, with grandstands and grass banks. One close to the southern coast; one in the mountains. Both amid forests. One difficult to access, one comfortably reachable.
The Mahinda Rajapaksa International Cricket Stadium has to be one of the remotest grounds in cricket. It takes its name from the coastal town of Hambantota, but is located at least 35km north of it. That would have been still bearable but apart from the hotel where the teams stay, there hardly seem to be any decent hotels in Hambantota town. Our hotel is in Tissamaharama, a town north-east of Hambantota and close to the Yala National Park. The town is surrounded by lakes and fields. The stadium is around 60km away.
One has to take the road southwest towards Hambantota and then turn northwards for the ground. The second leg of the journey is a completely out-of-place looking four-lane stretch. You train your eyes on the horizon, and struggle to count even four vehicles using the road. A thick forest lies on both sides. Forget a stadium, you'll be lucky to spot a house or two. Just when you actually start to think that you might have taken the wrong route, the stadium rises suddenly out of the forest. We have drop-in pitches, this seems like a drop-in stadium. There is next to nothing close by. At night the ground glistens in floodlights surrounded by endless darkness.
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Time for a ladies tea

It's not often that something in cricket is done with ladies in mind

Firdose Moonda
Firdose Moonda
25-Feb-2013
It's not often that something in cricket is done with ladies in mind. While the women's game and interest around it has grown, it will be many years before it is regarded the same way as the men's. For now, the participation of female representatives remains limited.
Often I am the only woman journalist on a full length tour, although I sometimes meet girlfriends along the way. At home, Jenny Bernstein of the South African Press Association is my BFF, in India ESPNcricinfo's Sharda Ugra and I chat over tea and in England I have bumped into, lunched and dined with Elizabeth Ammon and Sarah Ansell of SPIN cricket and Alison Mitchell of the BBC. But in places like New Zealand, Zimbabwe, Bangladesh, I've flown solo.
Don't think of that as a complaint. I've been lucky to have been accepted by my male colleagues as one of the boys and most of the time, there's no-one I'd rather be. But on the days when we go from eight hours of working on the cricket to four hours of watching rugby in the pub to endless conversations about golf swings, football leagues and boxing matches, it can get a little lonely.
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The colourful drive to Hambantota

Slight trepidation as I queue up in immigration at Mumbai airport for my first international flight. The bureaucratic expression of the officer turns into a broad smile as I answer 'cricket' to his question 'purpose of visit'

Abhishek Purohit
Abhishek Purohit
25-Feb-2013
Slight trepidation as I queue up in immigration at Mumbai airport for my first international flight. The bureaucratic expression of the officer turns into a broad smile as I answer 'cricket' to his question 'purpose of visit'. "You are the first person, at least in my queue, going for this Sri Lanka series," he says. I settle into my window seat on the flight, and watch Juhu beach disappear quickly from sight. Didn't know it would happen, but there is an air of finality to the moment the plane crosses the last lights of the southern Indian mainland and the blackness of the sea takes over.
Colombo arrives in a flood of bright white lights, as opposed to the neon yellow of most Indian cities. The southern coastal town of Hambantota, the venue for the first two ODIs, is a long drive away. Our car, an old Nissan model, bypasses Colombo city, taking a two-lane road towards Ratnapura in central Sri Lanka. Apart from the fact that it is narrow, the road is in top condition. Hardly a jolt. This isn't India, alright. Here, they call two-lane roads what they are to be called - roads. Good or bad, but still a road. Unlike in India, where anything connecting two cities passes for a highway. Good or bad.
There is one thing common, though. Overtaking. Taxis, buses, trucks, everyone wants to overtake. It is a fine art, overtaking. Requires courage and skill on a two-lane road.
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