Pakistan in Sri Lanka 2012 July 2, 2012

Riding the Queen of the Sea

One of the better ways of travelling with the locals is to hop on a train. Having done the Galle-Colombo route several times by road, including the flashy new Southern Expressway, I decided it was time for a change
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One of the better ways of travelling with the locals is to hop on a train. Having done the Galle-Colombo route several times by road, including the flashy new Southern Expressway, I decided it was time for a change. Not that there are a plenty of options. The train was the most alluring, as it runs by the coast like the old highway. It's one of the busier rail routes in the country, ferrying thousands who make the daily trip, especially office goers who don't mind rising at the crack of dawn to do the three-hour journey. The inter-city train is no different from a suburban local train. No reserved seats. Stand by the platform, shove yourself in the nearest compartment, keep your fingers crossed for an empty seat, or two (if you have company), grab your place and breathe a sigh of relief.

The day after the Galle Test, a fellow foreign journalist Shoaib Naveed, and I decided to ditch the road and take the express train instead. To say it costs a fraction of the amount to hire a cab for the same distance would be an understatement, as it costs just 180 Sri Lankan rupees (for a second-class ticket) to do a one-way trip, which lasts two and a half hours. The 11.15 train is a better bet for any tourist, as it beats the morning rush. A group of jovial Chinese tourists, wielding their DSLR cameras took a gazillion pictures of local teenage boys in mock celebration gestures drilling up an atmosphere in an otherwise peaceful setting at that time of the morning. I can imagine the pandemonium during peak hours.

One shouldn't expect anything sophisticated as the seating is basic. For those willing to rough it out a bit, especially in humid weather, it is a worthwhile experience. Watch your step if you plan to walk between compartments though, because the vestibules - which make a racket when the train gathers pace - can really test your balance. Especially, if you're as accident-prone as I am. Hold on to your seat when it approaches a station, or you could lose it.

The train winds its way through dense vegetation, with the sea making fleeting appearances. One couldn't resist getting the camera out and clicking away at the ocean, but mind you, it takes patience and plenty of clicks to get the perfect shot. This is if you hold a simple point-and-shoot camera or a mobile phone.

As you approach Colombo, the sea is almost within touching distance in certain stretches. This is partly captivating and partly intimidating during high tide. It brings back memories of horrifying images of the tsunami on December 26, 2004, which wrecked the same train - Queen of the Sea - killing nearly all passengers on board, when it was thrown off the tracks off the coast of Peraliya. The train still exposes itself to the vagaries of the sea, but that doesn't deter thousands of frequent commuters or first-timers like me.

Kanishkaa Balachandran is a senior sub-editor at ESPNcricinfo

Comments have now been closed for this article

  • Chathuradil on July 5, 2012, 6:24 GMT

    You take the trail from Matara to Ratnapura via Deniyaya...It's heaven on Earth

  • Chinthaka on July 3, 2012, 18:14 GMT

    Nice article about my heavenly island. Try Colombo-Badulla route by train, you'll be amazed. At least try Colombo-kandy. By the way does India has better railway system than ours?

  • Don on July 3, 2012, 13:22 GMT

    What is the point or the message this author is trying to convey in this article. I have travelled in trains in India several times and I can assure you that Sri Lankan trains are much more comfortable and far less crowded than Indian trains.

  • dharshan on July 3, 2012, 9:05 GMT

    Hillarious to see an Indian claiming about the standards of facilities in a Sri Lankan train..!!

  • Janaka on July 3, 2012, 7:25 GMT

    I live in Singapore, but I cannot forget the wonderful train ride in Sri Lanka. It's through the wonderful beaches of Sri Lanka, and through vegetation. Train may not an advanced technology unlike Singapore, but I firmly believe that Sri Lanka is a wonderful place to live in all aspects, including transportation. Miss that life so much.

  • Eugene LaBrooy on July 3, 2012, 6:16 GMT

    Ok, so what's his point?

  • Buddhika on July 3, 2012, 2:50 GMT

    Nice description. I like it very much.

  • R.Chandrashekhar on July 3, 2012, 0:12 GMT

    The description given is really wonderful. It should be the ambition of every individual to experience this fantasy. I myself us craving for an opportunity to enjoy this adventure. I am also planning to visit the Emerald Island in the near future.

  • sunil amarasena on July 2, 2012, 22:03 GMT

    Are you from India? Trains in Sri Lanka are heaven compared to the trains in India and the rest of the subcontinent.

  • Chat on July 2, 2012, 14:58 GMT

    Hmmm, to say that I have seen more interesting articles would be an understatement.

  • Chathuradil on July 5, 2012, 6:24 GMT

    You take the trail from Matara to Ratnapura via Deniyaya...It's heaven on Earth

  • Chinthaka on July 3, 2012, 18:14 GMT

    Nice article about my heavenly island. Try Colombo-Badulla route by train, you'll be amazed. At least try Colombo-kandy. By the way does India has better railway system than ours?

  • Don on July 3, 2012, 13:22 GMT

    What is the point or the message this author is trying to convey in this article. I have travelled in trains in India several times and I can assure you that Sri Lankan trains are much more comfortable and far less crowded than Indian trains.

  • dharshan on July 3, 2012, 9:05 GMT

    Hillarious to see an Indian claiming about the standards of facilities in a Sri Lankan train..!!

  • Janaka on July 3, 2012, 7:25 GMT

    I live in Singapore, but I cannot forget the wonderful train ride in Sri Lanka. It's through the wonderful beaches of Sri Lanka, and through vegetation. Train may not an advanced technology unlike Singapore, but I firmly believe that Sri Lanka is a wonderful place to live in all aspects, including transportation. Miss that life so much.

  • Eugene LaBrooy on July 3, 2012, 6:16 GMT

    Ok, so what's his point?

  • Buddhika on July 3, 2012, 2:50 GMT

    Nice description. I like it very much.

  • R.Chandrashekhar on July 3, 2012, 0:12 GMT

    The description given is really wonderful. It should be the ambition of every individual to experience this fantasy. I myself us craving for an opportunity to enjoy this adventure. I am also planning to visit the Emerald Island in the near future.

  • sunil amarasena on July 2, 2012, 22:03 GMT

    Are you from India? Trains in Sri Lanka are heaven compared to the trains in India and the rest of the subcontinent.

  • Chat on July 2, 2012, 14:58 GMT

    Hmmm, to say that I have seen more interesting articles would be an understatement.

  • Noel Jayetileke on July 2, 2012, 13:17 GMT

    Had a vist to down south last month after almost 8 to 10 years. Nothing has changed in the infra- structure, other than the highway which make travellers really comfortable.But observed the highway lanes are little bit narrow on par to normal standard.The breakdown lane is really silly as the driver has to step out to the highway. Poor engeering....

  • ninja on July 2, 2012, 13:16 GMT

    U Should go to Badulla from Kandy to get a glipse Awesome Sri Lanka..

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  • ninja on July 2, 2012, 13:16 GMT

    U Should go to Badulla from Kandy to get a glipse Awesome Sri Lanka..

  • Noel Jayetileke on July 2, 2012, 13:17 GMT

    Had a vist to down south last month after almost 8 to 10 years. Nothing has changed in the infra- structure, other than the highway which make travellers really comfortable.But observed the highway lanes are little bit narrow on par to normal standard.The breakdown lane is really silly as the driver has to step out to the highway. Poor engeering....

  • Chat on July 2, 2012, 14:58 GMT

    Hmmm, to say that I have seen more interesting articles would be an understatement.

  • sunil amarasena on July 2, 2012, 22:03 GMT

    Are you from India? Trains in Sri Lanka are heaven compared to the trains in India and the rest of the subcontinent.

  • R.Chandrashekhar on July 3, 2012, 0:12 GMT

    The description given is really wonderful. It should be the ambition of every individual to experience this fantasy. I myself us craving for an opportunity to enjoy this adventure. I am also planning to visit the Emerald Island in the near future.

  • Buddhika on July 3, 2012, 2:50 GMT

    Nice description. I like it very much.

  • Eugene LaBrooy on July 3, 2012, 6:16 GMT

    Ok, so what's his point?

  • Janaka on July 3, 2012, 7:25 GMT

    I live in Singapore, but I cannot forget the wonderful train ride in Sri Lanka. It's through the wonderful beaches of Sri Lanka, and through vegetation. Train may not an advanced technology unlike Singapore, but I firmly believe that Sri Lanka is a wonderful place to live in all aspects, including transportation. Miss that life so much.

  • dharshan on July 3, 2012, 9:05 GMT

    Hillarious to see an Indian claiming about the standards of facilities in a Sri Lankan train..!!

  • Don on July 3, 2012, 13:22 GMT

    What is the point or the message this author is trying to convey in this article. I have travelled in trains in India several times and I can assure you that Sri Lankan trains are much more comfortable and far less crowded than Indian trains.