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Travel

How green was my valley

Gardens, golf courses, lakes - there's plenty of nature to savour in Kandy

Kumar Sangakkara
Kumar Sangakkara
15-Nov-2010
The Kandy Perehera procession  •  Ishara S Kodikara/AFP

The Kandy Perehera procession  •  Ishara S Kodikara/AFP

The Temple of the Tooth
No visit to Kandy is complete without visiting the Dalada Maligawa, also known as the Temple of the Tooth, which dates back to the 16th century. The sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha is enshrined here. The best time to visit is when a pooja (religious service) is being held, at dawn, mid-day, or in the evening. In August each year the town dazzles with the sights and sounds of the Kandy Perera, a spectacular street procession where the sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha is paraded on an elephant through the streets.
Golfing
While I am not a regular golfer, I do love playing at the spectacular Victoria Golf & Country Club. If you like golf, you have to go. The undulating 18-hole course is beautiful with its views over the reservoir and the surrounding hills. You might want to take a fair number of balls along, though as there is plenty of rough for amateurs like me. The course is also well-positioned for those wanting to watch the cricket at Pallekelle, the new stadium on the outskirts of the city. You can stay in chalets or hire a villa on the estate.
The Kandy lake
Kandy is built around a lake and it is fun and relaxing to wander around it in the shade of the enormous trees. Best to do this early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Good also to visit the Kandy National Museum, situated behind the Temple of the Tooth. Gives you an interesting glimpse into the heyday of the Kandyan kingdom in the 17th and 18th centuries.
The Royal Botanical Gardens
Another must-do excursion in Kandy is a visit to the Royal Botanical Gardens. Built as a Queen's pleasure garden in the 14th century, they also housed a Kandyan prince's residence in the 18th century. The garden is famous for its rare orchids, and it is maintained beautifully. Great place to wander around, even for those that don't have green fingers.
If you do like nature then you might also like to visit Udawattakelle Sanctuary to the north of Kandy Lake, a mini rainforest that has some good walking paths.
Eating
If you are looking for some good food, seek out authentic Kandyan restaurants for ambul thiyal, a popular sour fish curry. If you want something posh, consider Theva or Kandy House, both small boutique hotels. The big hotels like Chaaya Citadel, Earl's Regency and Mahaweli Reach all have big buffet spreads for those with a big appetite. There is a nice, small vegetarian South Indian restaurant called Rams and also a Chinese restaurant specialising in Sri Lankan-style Chinese called Flower Song (expect lots of chilli). For a quick snack, the Bake House and Delight Bakers offer pastries and short eats on the main high street.