An Englishman in Pakistan (part 3)

I arrived in the historic city of Peshawar to be greeted by another dose of tear gas. This time it wasn't hopeful cricket fans who were on the receiving end, but traders protesting against taxes. The scenes were a little chaotic in the narrow streets.

It is hard to imagine a more interesting location for international cricket. Peshawar is one of the great cities of Central Asia, which for centuries has witnessed the passage of travellers, pilgrims and armies. Today the old city retains much of this historic charm. The cobbled streets are lined with old teashops, spice merchants and booksellers. Donkeys carrying vast loads of fruit pick their way through the crowds. Sunset and early evening are the best times to wander, as the Mosques call the faithful to prayer and the hawkers switch on their gas lamps to reveal great piles of nuts and dates to buy.

The City is a meat-eaters paradise. The smell of grilled meat is never far away. Peshawar is home to the 'chapli kebab', which is basically a burger with a kick. Entire roads in the city are devoted to butchers' shops with their legs of lamb and sides of beef on display. In the evening these turn into restaurants where diners order their food by the kilogram. Huge kebabs and whole racks of lamb are barbecued and served up with great chunks of nan bread and salad. It is a little disconcerting to finish a huge meal and gaze up to see whole sheep and cows hanging only metres away.

Peshawar lies close to the famous Khyber Pass and is capital to the area known as the North West Frontier Province. This is home to one of the last remaining tribal societies in the world. Pakistani law does not apply. This is a world where "an eye for an eye" and "a tooth for a tooth" is still the guiding philosophy. Foreigners and non-tribal Pakistanis are not allowed to visit these areas, as tribal conflicts are not uncommon.

The North West Frontier Province is also famous for guns and drugs. Only 40 kilometres from the city lies the town of Darra Adam Khel, renowned as one of the largest arms manufacturers in Asia. It is full of small workshops that produce a huge array of weapons from AK47s to exploding ballpoint pens. It is a bizarre experience to wander around a town where guns are so common and prospective buyers test them out on the side of the road. I had wanted to sample an AK47, but unfortunately I was befriended by an undercover policeman who told me that today wasn't a good day, but tomorrow would be better!