An Englishman in Pakistan (part 5)

They came, they saw and then they left again. Although the Barmy Army's stay in Pakistan was short, they certainly made an impression at the First Test in Lahore.

The Barmy Army's contingent numbered only about fifty on this trip, but what they lacked in numbers they made up for in enthusiasm and noise. They brought to Pakistan their flags, songs, facepaints and a whole new attitude to watching cricket. As the match progressed they added local Pakistani drums, guitars and flute-like instruments and an assorted array of headgear.

By the final day the cricket was very much a sideshow as the two sets of fans enjoyed the occasion more than the cricket. The 'Barmy Army Band' went on a circuit of the stadium with their instruments. They were ably led by the 'mohicaned prize-fighter', Toby, from Herne Bay in Kent. He was definitely a favourite with the Pakistani fans, with his haircut, red and white facepaint and amusing antics. By the end of the match his autograph was in great demand from the crowd.

The Pakistani crowds were led by 'chacha cricket' (Uncle Cricket), their green-clad flag bearer who, bizarrely, lives in Sharjah. He follows the Pakistan team all over the world and made frequent appearances during the World Cup in 1999. He is very popular with cricket fans, leading them in their chants for victory. He is also quite the TV star, as he features in Pepsi's recent commercials in Pakistan.

There was a great atmosphere between the two sets of fans throughout the match. There was a lovely moment on the final day when the Pakistan fans began to chant "Engerland, Engerland, Engerland." The English fans, in response, tried the Pakistani chant of "jiva, jiva, Pakistan" (live forever, Pakistan), much to the amusement of the crowd.

It was also great to meet a number of other nationalities at the cricket. There were Americans, Canadians, French, Swiss, German, Kiwis and even an Australian who turned up to watch the match. Some were watching the game for the first time and others were just there to watch England loose (the Kiwi and Australian in particular). The Aussie was even considering going to Faisalabad to watch the Second Test as he hadn't seen the 'whinging poms' loose!

The arrival of the Barmy Army saw my diet take a change for the worse - out went the curries and healthy fruit juices and in came the burgers and beer. Perhaps this was for the best as Ramadan is fast approaching and any extra pounds of flesh will surely be needed. It begins on the 27th November and means no food or drink between sunrise and sunset.

The Barmy Army's departure means that only five Englishmen and one Welshman remain. Lahore and the Y.W.C.A hostel (The Young Women's Christian Association) has begun to feel very much like home. It is situated within a Christian School, which means that lie-ins are very much a no-no. Even if the children do not wake you, the cleaners definitely will at 8.15 every morning. Its dormitory style beds, cracked walls and intermittent water and electricity supply are a source of endless amusement for all those lucky enough to stay there. But at £1.50 a night who can complain!