Canberra makes a refreshing change from Australia's larger cities. While Sydney astounds the visitor with its natural beauty and Melbourne charms with its urbanity, Canberra inspires all comers with space, geometry and gardens. It's a far cry from the sunny beaches or rugged outback commonly associated with the country, and Australia's quiet capital can feel sterile. Give it time, though, and one is inevitably drawn to the small city's dignity and structured beauty.
Sitting at the foot of the Snowy Mountains, Canberra is a short three-hour drive inland from Sydney. Built on a sheep station, its modernity marks the compromise made between Melbourne and Sydney for a centre of national administration. Canberra's striking design by Walter Burley Griffin, an acolyte of the visionary architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is evident not only in the city's national institutions but in each crescent and roundabout. This arrangement extends to the population of transitory politicians, diplomats and assorted locals, many of whom have come to join the bureaucracy.
When not enjoying the quaint atmosphere of Manuka Oval, the local venue for the World Cup, one can explore the city's impressive series of galleries and museums, cruise on and cycle about the lovely Lake Burley Griffin or mingle with dignitaries in the downtown Civic neighbourhood. There's no beach, but with plenty of trees, the city makes for an interesting diversion from the surf and sun of Australia's coast.
What to pack: Like most of Australia, Canberra enjoys a warm summer. Throughout February and March expect hot and sunny days around 30°C, which can be disturbed by the odd thunderstorm. The nights are pleasantly balmy. Pack loose, cool clothing with a light jacket, just in case, for the evening. At the cricket, locals will be in shorts or summer dresses with sandals or flip-flops, so feel free to dress down with them.
Canberra was designed for cars and can be difficult for a tourist to negotiate. Public transport is limited and the city's landmarks are vast distances apart, rarely making walking an option. Hiring a car is the best way to see the city and its glorious bush surrounds. You can do this
from the airport for around A$100 per day.
Taxis are another useful option, with fares around $25 from the airport to the city and $15 from Manuka Oval to downtown Civic. A further option is the
Canberra City Explorer tourist bus with its hop-on/hop-off system providing a convenient way to see the city for $35 a day.
Public transport is limited to the ACTION bus system, with both the
numbers 4 and 5 buses connecting Manuka Oval to Civic. Fares, paid on board, are $4.50 one way or $8.60 for a day ticket. The
Airport Express Bus to the city costs $20 for a return ticket. With an
extensive series of bike paths, cycling is also an excellent option to get around Canberra. However, at $40 per day
bike hire is reasonably expensive.
With the pain of mobility, the south-eastern suburbs of Canberra, adjacent to Manuka Oval, are the best choice to stay in. Fortunately, they offer plenty of options.
High-end: Manuka Oval is a stone's throw from many of the city's best hotels. The glittering five-star
Hotel Realm is a stroll up the hill from the ground. Also close to hand are both the
Burbury Hotel and
East Hotel, which provide comfort and boutique style. A pleasantly antique alternative is provided by the demure old-world charm of the
Brassey of Canberra.
Budget: Close to the ground is
Victor Lodge, offering budget rooms or dormitory options. Dormitories are also available above the
Kingston Hotel. Across town, budget options include
Canberra City Youth Hostel or the Backpackers upstairs at the
Civic Pub. If using Airbnb or a similar service, look for accommodation in the areas of Barton, Forrest, Griffith and Kingston for proximity to Manuka Oval, or around Acton for cheap rooms near the Australian National University.
There are a variety of restaurants near Manuka Oval.
High-end: If gastronomy is a priority,
Aubergine, Canberra's premier fine-dining restaurant, is a five-minute taxi ride from Manuka Oval. Travel in the opposite direction to the charming, lakeside setting of
Water's Edge for a romantic dining experience perfect for two. Inside the Burberry hotel sits the fine Chinese restaurant
Malamay, sister to the outstanding
The Chairman and Yip across town in Civic.
While several bars and pubs are close to Manuka Oval, head to downtown Civic for a more rigorous evening of festivity.
Don't leave Canberra without...
Immersing yourself in cricket by travelling overland from Sydney and stopping at the lovely Highland town of Bowral, home of Don Bradman. Here the excellent Bradman Museum and International Cricket Hall of Fame abound with memorabilia, interactive exhibitions and enough cricketing content to satiate any fan. Housed next to the picturesque Bradman Oval, it is cricket fantasy with the memory sure to linger.
Going bush in Canberra's inland setting by hiring a vehicle and exploring the surrounding plains and mountains. The
Namadgi and
Tidbinbilla National Parks are both stunning, with the
Canberra Space Centre sitting en route to the latter. For the adventurous explorer, driving the
Kosciuszko Alpine Way through the Snowy Mountains or cutting through to Batemans Bay on the coast and
driving south would prove exhilarating, though gruelling, methods to travel to Melbourne.