Inland island
This most un-Australian of cities will charm all comers with its geometry and gardens
04-Nov-2014

Glebe Park, to the east of Civic, is full of stately English elms • Fairfax Media via Getty Images
Canberra makes a refreshing change from Australia's larger cities. While Sydney astounds the visitor with its natural beauty and Melbourne charms with its urbanity, Canberra inspires all comers with space, geometry and gardens. It's a far cry from the sunny beaches or rugged outback commonly associated with the country, and Australia's quiet capital can feel sterile. Give it time, though, and one is inevitably drawn to the small city's dignity and structured beauty.
Sitting at the foot of the Snowy Mountains, Canberra is a short three-hour drive inland from Sydney. Built on a sheep station, its modernity marks the compromise made between Melbourne and Sydney for a centre of national administration. Canberra's striking design by Walter Burley Griffin, an acolyte of the visionary architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is evident not only in the city's national institutions but in each crescent and roundabout. This arrangement extends to the population of transitory politicians, diplomats and assorted locals, many of whom have come to join the bureaucracy.
When not enjoying the quaint atmosphere of Manuka Oval, the local venue for the World Cup, one can explore the city's impressive series of galleries and museums, cruise on and cycle about the lovely Lake Burley Griffin or mingle with dignitaries in the downtown Civic neighbourhood. There's no beach, but with plenty of trees, the city makes for an interesting diversion from the surf and sun of Australia's coast.
What to pack: Like most of Australia, Canberra enjoys a warm summer. Throughout February and March expect hot and sunny days around 30°C, which can be disturbed by the odd thunderstorm. The nights are pleasantly balmy. Pack loose, cool clothing with a light jacket, just in case, for the evening. At the cricket, locals will be in shorts or summer dresses with sandals or flip-flops, so feel free to dress down with them.
Getting around
Canberra was designed for cars and can be difficult for a tourist to negotiate. Public transport is limited and the city's landmarks are vast distances apart, rarely making walking an option. Hiring a car is the best way to see the city and its glorious bush surrounds. You can do this from the airport for around A$100 per day. Taxis are another useful option, with fares around $25 from the airport to the city and $15 from Manuka Oval to downtown Civic. A further option is the Canberra City Explorer tourist bus with its hop-on/hop-off system providing a convenient way to see the city for $35 a day.
Public transport is limited to the ACTION bus system, with both the numbers 4 and 5 buses connecting Manuka Oval to Civic. Fares, paid on board, are $4.50 one way or $8.60 for a day ticket. The Airport Express Bus to the city costs $20 for a return ticket. With an extensive series of bike paths, cycling is also an excellent option to get around Canberra. However, at $40 per day bike hire is reasonably expensive.
Where to stay
With the pain of mobility, the south-eastern suburbs of Canberra, adjacent to Manuka Oval, are the best choice to stay in. Fortunately, they offer plenty of options.
Quench your thirst at the Wig and Pen•Fairfax Media via Getty Images
High-end: Manuka Oval is a stone's throw from many of the city's best hotels. The glittering five-star Hotel Realm is a stroll up the hill from the ground. Also close to hand are both the Burbury Hotel and East Hotel, which provide comfort and boutique style. A pleasantly antique alternative is provided by the demure old-world charm of the Brassey of Canberra.
Mid-range: Functionality is the mantra at the Best Western Motel Monaro, but you could also consider serviced apartments in the neighbourhood, including The Forrest, Manuka Park, Nagee and Pinnacle. Alternately, if you have a car and want a relaxed experience, a number of rural retreats can be reached within half an hour. They include Cuppacumbalong, Guy's Cross Farm Cottage or The Old Stone House.
Budget: Close to the ground is Victor Lodge, offering budget rooms or dormitory options. Dormitories are also available above the Kingston Hotel. Across town, budget options include Canberra City Youth Hostel or the Backpackers upstairs at the Civic Pub. If using Airbnb or a similar service, look for accommodation in the areas of Barton, Forrest, Griffith and Kingston for proximity to Manuka Oval, or around Acton for cheap rooms near the Australian National University.
Where to eat
There are a variety of restaurants near Manuka Oval.
High-end: If gastronomy is a priority, Aubergine, Canberra's premier fine-dining restaurant, is a five-minute taxi ride from Manuka Oval. Travel in the opposite direction to the charming, lakeside setting of Water's Edge for a romantic dining experience perfect for two. Inside the Burberry hotel sits the fine Chinese restaurant Malamay, sister to the outstanding The Chairman and Yip across town in Civic.
Mid-range: A short walk from the Oval is Urban Pantry, providing modern Australian offerings. For something more exotic, find Moroccan, Turkish and Middle Eastern food at Mecca Bah or tapas at Legends Spanish Restaurant. Or take a short taxi ride to relax by the lake at C Dine Bar.
Budget: For a coffee and a snack on the go, stop by the popular Silo Bakery and Café before making your way to the ground. You can find cheap dining nearby with Chinese at both Portia's Place and Timmy's Kitchen, Mexican at Francisco's Cantina, Indian at Punjabi Hut or solid pub grub at the Kingston Hotel.
Where to party
While several bars and pubs are close to Manuka Oval, head to downtown Civic for a more rigorous evening of festivity.
High-end: With an extensive cocktail list, the 1920s Parisian-style Julep Lounge in Manuka is about as sophisticated as Canberra gets. Should you wish to travel further across town to Civic you can elegantly crawl between Benchmark Wine Bar, Hippo Co, Muddle Bar and Knightsbridge Penthouse.
Mid-range: Little Brussels Belgian Beer Cafe provides a relaxed drinking hole close to Manuka Oval. Over the lake in Civic, Honkytonks and Tongue & Groove are reputable establishments. Less dignified, the Casino Canberra may provide an evening's entertainment if you fancy a flutter.
Budget: The traditional place for a drink near Manuka Oval is the Kingston Hotel or the "Kingo". Make your way to Civic to continue the evening at King O'Malleys and The Wig and Pen. Live music is hosted at the ANU Bar, The Phoenix and Transit Bar. For nightclubs, get trashy at Mooseheads or give yourself up to dancing at the hetero-friendly gay club Cube.
A windy day at Lake Burley Griffin•Fairfax Media via Getty Images
Don't leave Canberra without...
Exploring Australia's cultural institutions, most of which are free and many of which are interesting for children. Parliament House may be climbed for fine views from its rooftop lawns of the magnificent Australian War Memorial standing across the lake. Families will enjoy visiting the Questacon science and technology centre, the National Museum with interactive exhibits of Australian history and culture, and the National Zoo and Aquarium. The National Gallery has a rich Australian collection of art, including Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander works, while the National Portrait Gallery contains portraits of prominent Australians, including cricketers Don Bradman, Steve Waugh, Glenn McGrath and Shane Warne.
Enjoying Lake Burley Griffin, the beautiful man-made lake that sits at the centre of Canberra. You can hop on a cruise ship, ride a paddle boat, or hire a bike and explore the beautiful parkland surrounding the lake, including the National Arboretum.
Immersing yourself in cricket by travelling overland from Sydney and stopping at the lovely Highland town of Bowral, home of Don Bradman. Here the excellent Bradman Museum and International Cricket Hall of Fame abound with memorabilia, interactive exhibitions and enough cricketing content to satiate any fan. Housed next to the picturesque Bradman Oval, it is cricket fantasy with the memory sure to linger.
Going bush in Canberra's inland setting by hiring a vehicle and exploring the surrounding plains and mountains. The Namadgi and Tidbinbilla National Parks are both stunning, with the Canberra Space Centre sitting en route to the latter. For the adventurous explorer, driving the Kosciuszko Alpine Way through the Snowy Mountains or cutting through to Batemans Bay on the coast and driving south would prove exhilarating, though gruelling, methods to travel to Melbourne.