Oceanic

The presence of the sea - Bangasagar (pronounced Bongosagor) - is overwhelming in Chittagong. This includes the Zohur Ahmed Chowdhury stadium, which is about a kilometre from the waterfront. Chittagong is the oldest active port of this size in South Asia.

Flying to Chittagong airport is a visual treat. A traveller from Kolkata flies over breathtaking scenery: the Sunderbans delta - one of the largest mangroves in the world - and the many rosary bead-like islands leading up to the sinuous and majestic Karnaphuli river (in Hindu mythology, presumed to be the the flower-shaped earring lost by Sita when kidnapped by Ravana).

The drive from the international airport to the stadium via the road to Patenga Beach offers a superb view of sampans, trawlers and cargo ships on the water.

When you hear the locals speak their Chatagai, a singsong mix of Bengali and several local languages, and notice the influence of Arabic, Persian, Portuguese and French, you remember that only two or three centuries ago, this part of the world was one of the world's trading hubs.

The ground and the road leading up to it are called sagarika (born in the ocean). The stadium looks like a gigantic boat lying on the bank of the Bangasagar, and the cool sea breeze that blows through gives much relief during sold-out matches. Five years ago international matches were moved from the historic MA Aziz Stadium in the centre of the city to this one by the sea. But Chittagong's oldest sports ground is the polo ground, which is now mostly used for exhibitions and trade fairs.

The current cricket stadium is also close to the world's biggest shipbreaking site, and apart from ship junk, you'll also find a lot of antique furniture that has been transported from across the world.

Despite a recent Bollywood film, (Khelein Hum Jee Jaan Se, about the Chittagong uprisings in pre-Independence India) featuring the city, there's little that outsiders know about this port town at the eastern end of the South Asian subcontinent which was a former battleground between the British and the Japanese. The Second World War cemetery here is a reminder of that time and the many lives lost.

After you've watched the cricket match and been to the 125-year-old Chittagong club, it's time to explore the city properly. The best place to start will be the Bishaud Bangla: it's a charming boutique where you can buy rickshart (rickshaw art), jamdani saris, attend poetry readings, documentaries, dance recitals, and enjoy the atmosphere of an adda. It's a place where locals and foreigners mingle and discuss culture, food, shopping and more. Recently fashion designer and former international model Bibi Russell held an exhibition of her work there. She had been invited by Alliance Francaise, another venue you could visit for social gatherings and discussions.

If it's something more touristy you'd like to do, head 180 kilometres out of the city to Cox's Bazar, the world's longest beach. There are several hotels but the government-run Hotel Shaibal, an old-fashioned place with an unmatched garden and private access to the beach, is a popular choice, not just for visitors but also film-makers.

Off the Cox's Bazar coast is the Moheshkhali island, 15-30 minutes by speedboat. Apart from a famous Buddhist temple, the island boasts a mangrove forest and a range of low-lying hills.

If you want to remain on shore, you could, like most foreigners do, go south of Cox's Bazar to Inani Beach and enjoy the Mermaid Cafe Eco-resort. From there a small rowboat will take you to a more secluded beach.

Check out more information about the area on the Chittagong tourism board's website.