French connection

Sample the best of Franco-Tamil culture, food and spirituality in the charming seaside town of Pondicherry

Nikita Bastian

10-Dec-2010

Brick buildings with intricate balustrades, cobbled streets, artists at street corners… one visit is all it takes to fall in love with the former French colony of Pondicherry (or Puducherry, as it is has been recently re-christened) just a 2.5-hour drive away from Chennai.

Getting there

The simplest way to get to Pondicherry from Chennai is to drive down, along the Bay of Bengal, on the rather well-maintained East Coast Road. Taxi cost: approximately Rs 5000 for a six-seater SUV. Recommended pit stops: Cholamandal Artists' Village (Tel 91-44-24490092), DakshinaChitra Heritage Centre (Tel 91-44-24462435), Muttukadu Lake and Adventure Zone (Tel 91-9566107555).

Things to do

The most recognisable Pondicherry "landmark" is probably the Beach Road promenade, with its rocky seawall. While you stroll along here, have a photograph taken by the statue of François Dupleix, the 18th-century French Governor General. The best way to explore the town is on foot - sign up for a heritage walk with INTACH (an organisation that restores and preserves heritage buildings; Tel 91-413-2225991), to explore the old-world architecture of the French, Tamil and Muslim neighbourhoods.

Nature lovers, stop by the Botanical Gardens on Lal Bahadur Shastri Road. Opened in the early 19th century, they house over 1500 species of fauna.

There's always a cultural event on at Alliance Française on Suffren Street, be it an art exhibition or a play showcasing French or Tamil folk arts.

If you're in town on the second Saturday of a month, stop by Seagulls Restaurant on Beach Road, for a jam session with bands (Indian classical, Indi-pop, rock, jazz, heavy metal, fusion) from across south India, 7pm onwards).

Don't miss the tranquil Chunnambar backwaters on the outskirts, where you can rent a motor boat and head out to sea, looking for dolphins.

Pondicherry is a reputed spiritual hot spot. When in town, a visit to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram on Marine Street is a must. Set up in 1926 by Indian freedom fighter and philosopher Aurobindo Ghosh, the ashram is all about development of the mind, spirit, art and a holistic lifestyle. An offshoot of the Ashram is Auroville, a township 6km north of Pondy. Conceived by "The Mother", a Frenchwoman who joined Sri Aurobindo in his spiritual work, Auroville is home to over 2000 people, who live communally and organically. Stop by the Matrimandir, a gold-plated, spherical meditation centre.

The Ashram's cottage industries churn out great souvenirs: handmade marbled paper gift boxes, incense sticks, aloe vera shampoo and clay pot candles. Game for a bit of haggling and battling a crowd? Make your way to bustling JN Street or the Sunday Market on Gandhi Street, where you'll find everything from organic fruit to clothes in pavement stalls. Prefer to go high-end? Try Kalki on Mission Street (Tel 91-413-2339166), which has hand-painted silks, artsy jewellery and footwear.

Mahabalipuram

Once the stronghold of the Pallava Dynasty (4th-9th century BC), Mahabalipuram, which lies roughly halfway between Chennai and Pondicherry on the East Coast Road, is a must-see. Explore Pallavan architectural masterpieces, like the world-renowned Shore Temple, Arjuna's Penance (a massive, carved rock) and Panch Rathas (five monolithic rock-cut temples). Then there's the natural wonder that is Krishna's Butterball - a huge boulder that balances precariously on a hill slope. After a morning of sightseeing, settle down to some succulent calamari and a beer at Moonrakers (Tel 91-44-27442115) - the best restaurant in Mahabalipuram by popular opinion - on Othavadai Street. A meal for two costs upwards of Rs 500. Mahabalipuram is a great place to pick up miniature stone sculptures (you'll find whole streets of such stores in town), provided you know to bargain. An hour's drive from Chennai. Taxi cost: approximately Rs 3000 for a six-seater SUV.

Where to eat

Sample French Creole cuisine at Carte Blanche, the restaurant at Hotel de l'Orient, Romain Rolland Street. The chefs here mix French recipes and Indian ingredients with stunning results. We suggest the grilled, spiced squid.

No visit to Pondy is complete without a meal at Satsanga (Tel 91-413-2225867), a French-style bistro that dishes out authentic crêpes and bouillabaisse.

Too health conscious for such indulgences? Head to The Dune Resort, 15km north of Pondy. Here you can tuck into dishes like poached fish in court bouillon or millet cake with tahini, which are based on the Ayurvedic concepts of vata, pitta and kapha.

Where to stay

Le Dupleix is a boutique hotel in the French quarter (Caserne Street), which served as the Mayor's residence in colonial times. Approximately Rs 4500 onwards per double room per night.

Set in a heritage building in the Tamil quarter (Perumal Koil Street), with unpolished Cuddapah stone floors and a central courtyard, Maison Perumal costs about Rs 7500 onwards per double room per night.

Aurodhan is a live-in art gallery on François Martin Street that organises popular cultural events. Approximately Rs 1800 onwards per double room per night.

Put up at an Aurovillian guest house for as little as Rs 400 per night. Try the Quiet Healing Centre (Tel 91-413-2622329), which conducts well-being workshops for residents.