First impressions of Dhaka - Barmy Army

Ah, Dhaka. Crowded, polluted, but oh so friendly.

As Dhaka is a city of between twelve an thirty million people (no-one really seems to know) we spent a couple of days getting to know only the area immediately around our hotel and the cricket stadium which were 400 yards apart at opposite sides of Bangabandhu Avenue.

There are some buildings of architectural beauty, but in general, Dhaka is a jungle of hastily put together concrete structures, all crammed together. In the spaces between the buildings, you will find rickshaws, rickshaws and more rickshaws. At the last count, there were over 600,000 and rising - more than any other city in the world. It is not the rickshaws that are the problem, though - they are compact, manouverable and all are painted and otherwise adorned with bright colours and patterns. It is the buses, trucks and cars that are the problem. There are more cars in Dhaka than any other city I've been to on the subcontinent. A lot of brand new cars too. I know there are some very wealthy people in Dhaka, but why you'd want to drive a brand new motor through the rest of that madness is a mystery to me. All of this traffic means a 6km journey at certain times of the day can take over an hour, whichever type of vehicle you travel in.

Despite the streets being jam-packed full of people and vehicles (sardines, you've got it easy compared to this lot) the city is very friendly. In India, this can become annoying, as you can say hello to one chap and within seconds find another fifty crowded around you. This is not so in the Desh. The people are generally pleased to see you, but will leave you alone if you simply acknowledge their greeting, but do not want to stop and let them practice their English on you ("What is your country? What is your name? Why do you come to Bangladesh?")

Right, on with the Test match.

Bangladesh v England, 1st Test, Bangabandhu Stadium, Dhaka, 21st-25th October 2003

DAY 1. For a serious cricket fan, this was seriously exciting stuff, the first ever Test England had played against the newest Test nation. There were three main sets of England fans in the ground. The John Snow tour package types sitting next to the press box with tables and televisions, the regulation Barmy Army types in the next section round (at third man for the RHB) and the hardcore traveller types at the other end of the ground in the cheap seats (70 taka/day - about 70 pence). I usually watch different sessions of the match in different sections of the ground in order to maximise fanzine sales, but for the start of this historic Test, I was at the "Nursery End" and was as excited as my compatriots. Cameras were at the ready as Matthew Hoggard raced in for the first ball. No shot offered, through to the keeper, the Test had begun.

The first three overs were maidens and, from memory, it was not until the third over that leather struck willow. Hoggard and Harmison were finding their feet, as well as Hannan Sarkar and Javed Omar. The first run came in the fourth over to wild cheers from the locals. We clapped too, we're nice like that.

The score still at one for no wicket, the heavens opened. Only for fifteen minutes, but this was serious rain. Not messing about rain like we have back in Blighty, but serious rain. Despite the covers being put on quickly and efficiently to protect the square, the fifteen minute downpour left some parts of the outfield with large pools of standing water. This meant that play did not resume until 4.15pm.

Only a few more overs were possible before the light deteriorated. Harmison bagged Javed Omul and Habibul Bashar and play ended on 24 for two.

DAY 2. All the England players took to the field in sunhats today, which made it difficult to tell some of them apart. There was a little bit of drizzle early on and the floodlights were put on. The brightest in the world apparently and I, for one, wouldn't argue with that.

The Bangladeshi middle order looked useful and for a whlie our boys struggled. The Tigers are short, agile men who run quick singles that most other sides wouldn't dream of. This puts pressure on the fielding captain to plug the gaps, meaning boundaries can be struck. Powerful, precision boundaries too, intersecting the gaps between the fielders perfectly. Alok Kapali scored 28 runs, Mushfiq Rehman 34 and wicket keeper Khaled Mashud an impressive 51.

Hoggard got among the wickets, bowling opener Hannan Sarker to make it 38 for three and later picking up two LBWs, both given by umpire Ashkoa (by name and by nature) de Silva. Crikey, they must have been absolutely plumb, no doubt about it, hitting middle stump half way up, sending it cartwheeling before embedding itself in the wicket keepers forehead. This man is the worst umpire in the world. Full stop.

It was good to see Hoggard back and bowling fast and straight, something sadly lacking tacking during the summer against South Africa. Harmison joined in too and this looked like a proper Test match attack.

Despite loyal support from the England fans - "Give me joy in my heart keep me spinning, give me joy in my heart I pray, give me joy in my heart keep me spinning, keep me spinning till the close of play. Ashley Giles, Ashley Giles, Ashley Giles is the King of Spain....." On this performance he is more likely to be the King of Spain than anything else. Apart from the king of long hops and half volleys on leg stump. This was a poor performance (he finished 12-1-47-0).

Gareth Batty looked pretty good on debut and he finished 21-6-43-1, picking up the wicket of the useful Alok Kapali.

At 148 for seven, we should have wrapped it up, but you can't account for a nutter. When number nine Mohammad Rafique came out to bat I happened to be chatting to a Bangladeshi lawyer friend of mine. "This man is crazy, he will either hit a six or be out" he exclaimed. Rafique is only a small man, but sure enough he hit three massive sixes that I.T. Botham would have been proud of. He hung around for a while frustrating the bowlers and was eventually out for 32 and the score had moved on to 198 for nine. The innings ended with Bangladesh 203 all out - a good effort. Harmison finished with five for 35, which was also a good effort. He bowled far less wayward deliveries than he has done in the past and in this heat and humidity that is to be applauded. This was the day before his birthday, so the Barmy Army sung "Five-for for your birthday". Which was nice.

When he came out to bat, Banger went Bananas (do you see what I've done there? I've used alliteration to accentuate a point). After 14 overs, Tresco was on 36 and Vaughan only one. Bish bash bosh! Bananas!

Vaughan looked a bit nervy so took the sensible option and concentrated on preserving his wicket while runs flowed at the other end. The day finished with England on 111 for no wicket after 31 overs (Trescothick 77*, Vaughan 30*).

DAY 3. Day 3 saw the arrival of a new flag at the "nursery end." Up until now, it had been the usual array of patriotic English flags with the names of towns, football teams and individuals emblazoned across them for friends and family to spot on the TV back home. The new flag was of simple design with the handwritten words: "Paul Whitehead, Tarmac and Brick Paving Specialists, Buxton, England." This made me laugh. Whether it was a genuine advert or a joke at someone's expense, I don't know, but it made me laugh anyway.

Vaughan fell two short of his half century. A shame, as this would have been well deserved. The captain had looked genuinely uncomfortable at times out there and these were runs crafted from hard work and determination. Butcher and Hussain both fell for ducks which immediately put the pressure back on England who were now 140 for three. Trescothick and Thorpe batted well together, adding 35 until Banger played a rash sweep and was caught at square leg for 113.

Rikki Clarke came in and looked quite useful, hanging around with his Surrey team mate while another 49 runs were added. People often forget that runs are made in partnerships and although Clarke only scored 14, his was an invaluable effort as he faced 93 balls and allowed Thorpe to play freely at the other end, steadying England's ship.

Chris Read didn't hang around for long, but Batty and Giles put on 19 apiece and Hoggard six to leave England all out for 295. Not brilliant, but considering we are in a new country and facing new adversaries, some of whom were turning it square, it was ok. More importantly, we had a lead of 92.

Bangladesh finished the day on 12 for one, Rajin Saleh, who had been promoted to open, caught Read bowled Harmison.

That evening many of the England fans had been invited to a bash at the International Club in Gulshan 2 (an area of Dhaka about 10km from the cricket ground). This was an exclusive do and we had to sign in at the gate. Having been for a few pints at the nearby Privilege Club, I and a couple of others arrived at around midnight and looked at the list of names that had already signed in. There was a Mark Butcher, a couple of Nasser Hussains, a few Graham Thorpes and several Matthew Hoggards! We are not so childish though and before long Jack Hobbs, W.G. Grace and Farokh Engineer were striding in to join the others.

I won't try and describe the impressive marquee, the professional lighting, the Indian pop star who was playing live along with gyrating backing dancers as well as the great company of fellow cricket fans and locals, but I will say this: if you weren't there you missed a cracking night and some of us didn't get to bed until 6.30am.

DAY 4. Play started at 9.30am as usual (we made it there on time, in case you ask) and by 11.20am, the young Tigers had overtaken our score, this meant we must bat again. There was a big crowd in as this was Friday, their holy day, and they were making a tumultuous amount of noise. They love their cricket over here and will cheer and clap loudly at the slightest thing. It seemed that the volume of the crowd, who totally drowned the small amount of England fans, had got to the England team. Yes it was noisy, yes it was very hot and humid, but the display on day 4 by the England team was woeful. The bowling was wayward, the ground fielding was shoddy and even the throwing back to the keeper was shocking. A bad display all round.

Now I don't mind when England play badly, as long as they're still putting the effort in. On day 4 they didn't look bothered. There was only Matthew Hoggard who stood out as caring about what was going on. The body language from the rest of them translated as: "We're hot and we can't be arsed."

Play finished with Bangladehis on 245 for six. Unless England got among them early tomorrow, it was set up to be an interesting last day.

DAY 5. All four results were possible at the start of play, but England must have given themselves a good kick up the backside after yesterday's hideous effort. The team's body language was excellent and Hoggard and Harmison bowled fast and straight, each picking up two wickets in forty five minutes leaving Bangladeesh 255 all out and England needing 164 to win.

This could have been tricky on a last day turning pitch, but Trescothick and Vaughan set off at a rate of knots and we never looked back. Vaughan ended up 81 not out and we won the game by seven wickets at around 2pm. The right result in the end, but a very entertaining, ebbing and flowing Test match. Bangladesh look a promising side. Give them another five or six years and against other Test sides and they will start winning games regularly. If they can find a decent tall (difficult in Bangladesh) fast bowler, that too would improve them.

I really enjoyed watching them and am looking forward to seeing them again tomorrow in Chittagong for the start of the second Test.

Andy Clark, Cox's Bazaar, 28th October 2003